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1989 Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooled station wagon with automatic transmission.
I'm hoping someone who has had the same troubles I am having might be able to help me out. Here's the scoop: I have been experiencing intermittent headlight failure, i.e., with the rotary headlight switch on, the headlights will turn on about 50 percent of the time. The brights seem to work all the time, and I can flash the brights with the rotary headlight switch in the off position. After unselecting the brights, the dims don't come back on every time...
As per the 700/900 FAQ, I thoroughly cleaned the grounding lugs behind the headlights on both sides and tightened them up. Then I removed the trim panel on the passenger's side and pulled out the relay to check the connections and lugs. I also pulled off the cover of the relay to look for any obvious signs of overheating/loose connections/cracks in the solder with no visible sign of troubles (Whole bottom of relay board is coated with some kind of clear varnish/lacquer stuff). I plugged the relay back in and ran the rotary light switch on and off, and sometimes the dims will not come on, and then 5, 10, 40 seconds later, come on of their own volition; others, the lights come on as normal. I also pulled out the headlight rotary switch and cleaned all the contacts. Man! There are lots of little balls, springs, and dumbbell-shaped rollers inside that switch. I managed to get it all back together again, and same results: the lights have a mind of their own.
I can hear a click from the headlight relay (marked A E) each time I switch to bright headlights, but it doesn't click if the dims are selected and don't come on. I have looked online to find a replacement headlight relay with no luck. fcpgroton, ipdusa.com, vlvworld.com have no relay for my model. Does this sound like the headlight relay is bad? Could I still have a problem with the grounding lugs behind the headlights on the fenders? Any advice? I can't very well drive this car with the headlights going on and off with no input from the driver! How much does this relay cost and can I get it anywhere besides the local bandits at Volvo?
Thank you in advance for your suggestions and help. Keep on Brickin'!
Oopala
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My friend's former 1990 765T had similar symptoms. A replacement (used) relay cured it. I'd suggest trying to track down a used replacement (from a junkyard) and seeing if that helps.
If you want a new relay, call FCP Groton or whomever. Most of these places stock and can order plenty of stuff not listed on their web sites.
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alex
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I also have a 1989 760 wagon - my pride and joy. Although you seem to have covered the obvious problem areas of grounding, relay and switch, you didn't mention anything about the FUSES ! Fuse #3 and #4 are LH and RH Upper Beams. Fuses #7 and #8 are for LH and RH Low Beams. On my fuse panel, there seems to be a discrepancy with fuse #7 which is listed as only 10A and all the other headlight fuses (3,4,6) as 15A.
I would suggest that you remove all these fuses and be sure the contacts are perfectly clean and bright. You might just buy new ones since they are not very expensive. What you don't want to see is melted or deformed fuse sockets. I have seen this on 740 fuse blocks.
And of course it could also be the wiring although a 1989 wouldn't have the same biodegradable insulation as in the mid 80's often had.
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Dmanpdi-
I'll check the 4 headlight fuses to make sure they are OK, and probably replace them all just to be sure. However, is it possible for a fuse to cause intermittent failure of the low beams on the headlights? Aren't fuses on/off and not maybe/sometimes? I guess stranger things have happened! I'll do that in the morning and report back on any findings. I also have the strange fuse situation with one 10amp and 3 15amp fuses for hi/lo right/left headlights. Hmmm...Thanks for the suggestion and I'm hoping to hear more suggestions from other Brickers. I also really like my 89 765ti - wagon love at its best!
Oopala
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Fuses are not really switches. They don't have zero resistance when good. Fuses are actually RESISTORS that heat up and melt at some pre-determined point. And since they are resistors they get HOT, especially the ones for the higher amperage fuses. More heat is need to "melt" the thicker link for the higher amperage. Smaller fuses seldom cause problems, but the ones for 15A and above do! Have you ever place your hand on a fusebox during the night with all the car lights on? They definitely get hot!
In addition you may have corrosion problems at the connection points of the fuses. They basically are a blade/spade type connector. Some computer connectors try for a gas-tight joint using gold plate. Cheaper solder (tin/lead) connectors are considered much less reliable. I used to clean printed circuit connectors with a rubber pencil eraser which would remove any corrosion/discoloration leaving it bright and shining.
There is a reason the fuses are INSIDE the 740 passenger compartment. You may have heard about the 240 Fuel Injection 25amp fuse near the battery and behind the radiator which causes so many 240 no start problems. Electricians use a anti-oxidant goo on connectors. Talk to someone with a 240 (like me) and they'll tell you about their small brass brush, pinching the fuse end connectors and applying this goo to the notoriously unreliable 240 fuse block.
In addition if you have a corroded joint with a large current trying to flow through it, there could be a potential fire hazard if you leave the circuit energized for a long time as you generated more heat (and corrosion as melted plastic, carbon, etc) at the defective joint. I have solved situations like this in the past with only my nose!
You could also troubleshoot this problem directly with a multimeter or even a simple 12v test light, but you would need an accurate wiring diagram. By chance have you installed higher wattage headlights?
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Well, yes, I didn't mean that fuses are switches. I didn't really say what I meant to say, I guess. Fuses either are functional or burned through, I thought, but after your reply I guess they could be only occasionally functional if rust/corrosion/poor connection was present in the fuse box. I checked the fuses and they look excellent, as do the headlight connections and the relay lugs/prongs. I'm guessing that the headlight relay has partially given up the ghost OR maybe the bulb failure indicator relay has started to lose its brain. I did manage to find the headlight relay online (http://www.swedishparts.net item number 1362900) , but the list was like $133.00 US and the retail suggestion was $95.00, which I didn't understand. I think a 10 dollar junkyard relay would be best, if I can find one. I'm in Fairbanks, Alaska, and there aren't a lot of cars in the auto wreckers of my make and model, I would guess. After all, I'm not in Portland, Oregon (yet!)
If I can't find a used headlight relay, I guess I'll bite the bullet and buy a new one. Ouch! If that doesn't work, I guess I'll try the bulb failure indicator relay, if I'm reading the Volvo green repair manual correctly. There seems to be a lot of stuff in the headlight circuit: Headlight relay, Power relay 15I, Fasten seat belt reminder, Intermittent relay/windscreen wiper, bulb failure relay, and I only checked the headlight relay for bad connections. I'll have to pull out the related relays and check them, I guess. Complex system, for sure!
Thanks so much for the help, alex, and dmanpdi. I will report back with my findings. I would have thought the headlights would be bullet proof, relatively speaking, and they are stock with no modifications. I used to have E-code headlights in my previous 1989 Volvo 760 sedan, but that was overseas, and it was Euro spec. Lots more horsepower with that engine: yeehaa! Keep on Brickin' and I can't tell you how much I appreciate this community.
Oopala
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Have you called/emailed FCP groton? Their prices are pretty good.
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Hello all-
I went to the local junkyard to look for a headlight relay. I only found a sad-looking 1985 740 sedan minus the rear clip. I took the lock kicker and linkage from the passenger's side in case I want to go remote central locking sometime in the future, a fuel relay, and a bulb failure relay, but it's the wrong one for my Brick (it's round and orange) Oh, and also the main, driver's side window switch, but unfortunately, it is minus the mirror controllers.
So, I guess the only option now is to bite the bullet and call Nick at fcpgroton.com and ask him for the damages, unless anyone has a different idea. Also, the junkyard owner said that because there is no Volvo dealer in Fairbanks, all the Bricks have been crushed. There were only about 6-7 very old 240 series cars and the one, lonely early 740 in a junkyard of thousands of cars. Bummer.
More news to follow as it develops, and thanks to all for help and suggestions...
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Yes, you need the relays from an 88-90 760 or a 91-94 960.
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alex
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All-
Purchased headlight relay from Nick and Co. at fcpgroton.com for 85 dollars and installed it. Then I fired up the Black Bomber and cycled the headlight switch about 50 times with 100 percent functionality. Excellent! Thanks to all my fellow Brickers for their helpful hints and suggestions. I will update this thread if replacing the relay fails in the long run to fix my intermittent headlight problem. Keep on Brickin' !
Oopala
1989 Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooler Wagon
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