My brick has been sitting in my employer's parking lot for well over a week now cuz the car just lost all power beyond idle. (absolutley NO problems at idle) This is also accompanied with a intake backfire preload sound yet no backfire. These Symtoms appeared in mid-summer and eventually disappeared. In recent days I've been killing/restarting the car during travel and the problem goes away. One note) The problem took full control when i had downshifted to pass a slower car (under 40mph) ... The car is destined to the shop if I can't get some ideas elsewhere...
Now I come here, to you guys, for some suggestions.

History - Replaced Fuel relay with 2001 stamp, Fuel pump is aftermarket, Fuel filter is OEM, every three tanks gets Techron, Cap, rotor, wires and plugs are all new Bosch (NGK is next), Switched to Rotella T, Replaced water pump, therm, hoses and Nissens 3 core Radiator, recently used carb cleaner in TB (Bentley says not to) Replaced Flametrap and Oil Fill grommet, all new belts in correct layout,

Things I've been able to asccomplish while standing in 28 deg. rain/sleet with no shelter.
1) Pulled O2, tested good @ 0.13-0.66V (i have a Bosch 13077 on standby)
2) Pulled AMM, tested a bit below @ 2-3 term = 3.2 ohms , 2-6 term = 713 ohms; AMM disconnected DOES affect operation.
3) Timing is correct, belt tension is firm
4) Visual inspection of vacuum hoses seem good (no hissing)
5) Slight fuel smell in FPR hose
6) Pasty oil dribble coming from #1 & #2 spark plugs ports, yet they are tight.
7) No Oil disturbance (i.e. water, debry, etc.)
8) Fuses are in decent shape (Autozone brand shows poor structure)
9) FI's were vibrating but yet seemed week compared to a honda

Is there a way to examine the computer similar to a A-B hotlead method for OBD?
I'm preparing to perform a Compression Test, the first test in 2003 showed 125psi. A Charge Test and Coil Text to follow...

Thanks to all that take the time to read this, further thanks if you respond
Tim