Hi all. First time poster, been lurking for awhile. This post is just to document information that might be helpful to the next fella in my situation. Lord knows I could have used it.

"Carl" is a '65 122s, my first car. Well, not mine, but my girlfriends. I don't even know how to drive, but that's another story.

Since purchasing Carl he's presented every problem that the 122s' are known for. I'm not begrudging him in the slightest, he is over 40 after all, but if a problem is know to happen to a 122, Carl has exhibited it. In short order I have replaced the brake master cylinder, both wheel cylinders, the water pump, timing gear and now the generator.

Carl came with an extra generator and voltage regulator set when purchased. Probably not a good sign, but nice to have a spare I suppose. The installed one recently took a dump "Why is that red light on all the time?" so it was time to investigate.

Tried reversing the flow of electricity to see if she would spin in situ, no go. Pulled her and noticed a big "REMAN" stamp on the case. I think now's a good time to convert to an alternator. Checked the brushes anyways and they we're fine.

Had a heck of a time finding the correct alternator. Say Delco 10SI to a parts counter and you'll get that raised eyebrow that comes from even saying "Volvo".

You want part number: 7127
If they ask for what car, any RWD GMC from 75-89 or so will suffice.
Get the 63 amp version.

The mounting problems will be apparent as soon as you try and install it. Some light fabrication work, or a short time with an angle grinder and a lost core charge is in order. A long bolt, some lock washers and nuts and the everpresent Loktite (blue not red!) will complete the job. Fabricating a bracket is a better idea in case you ever have to replace it on the road. I'll get around to it soon enough.

Wiring is simple enough, though not idiot proof. (I thoroughly tested that supposition) You'll need the wiring harness for the alternator, as they don't come with them.

Remember to bypass the external voltage regulator.

On the alternator:

BAT goes to the battery positive. If you use the original wiring it would be the sole wire from the back of the regulator.

1 is the thinner wire from the harness, usually white, it goes to the amp light. This would be the thin red wire from the front of the regulator.

2 is the thicker wire from the harness, usually red, that also goes to the positive terminal on the battery. Easiest way to do this is to just jump it to the BAT terminal on the alternator. If you leave it unhooked or connected to ground, your alternator won't work though the amp light will remain unlit. This will lead you to believe that the original problem wasn't with the generator and that there's a short somewhere maybe or a wire is loose or the alternator is fried. Ask how I know.

Test using a multimeter. They're cheap and indispensible for many things.

'Luck.