Hello

If possible please help with the following questions. (2)1995 940, (2)1989 740, 1987 740, 1991 240, 1993 960 not the subject of this message

Does the crank pulley bolt on a B230F require clockwise or counter clockwise to be removed.

Do all B230F (regardless of model) engines have the same bolt direction when removing.

The special tool 5284 does stop the crank from moving however what type of wrench works best in breaking the bolt loose. I was unable to budge it at all with a 24mm attached th a 1/2 inch ratchet. I was considering a 3/4 inch breaker bar. I have read so many warnings about using a air gun. I have actually tapped the starter with a breaker bar attached to the bolt. It worked for our 740 a couple years ago. But I have been scared off from that and the impact gun because of all of the warnings about breaking the crank. I wonder if the dealerships use an air gun in the removal and re install because it is really time consuming to do it properly and the local dealership only charges 1 and 1/2 hour to do the entire job. Most non volvo shops will tell you they use an air gun both off and on (no torquing). Do you think volvo cranks are as durable as other manufacturers. Who would like to be wrong about what the crank can tolerate. What a unattractive thought.

I have no idea how long since the last timing belt. The belt is the later design with the round edges, 1993 on for the 940s. The belt seems to have small cracks on only one edge of each tooth. Is it possible the gears stress one edge of each tooth more that the other edge. Does this description mean the belt is due or are the cracks on the one edge by design.

In the process of lining of the timing marks, we moved the crank pulley by hand and noticed the belt actually wanted to move off the cam gear. What keeps the belt centered while the engine runs. It looks like the cover has a great deal of fine shaved rubber from the belt. Is it possible the cover actaully restrains the belt. I have never seen quite so much rubber residue. I imagine the large thin washer like guides on the lower crank gear keeps the bottom from moving.

More, thanks for your patience, the existing belt has a great deal of slack between the cam gear and the intermediate gear. I did loosen the tensioner and it picked up some of the differnce. But still more slack than what you would think as functional. Is this the result of a used belt or will ther always be slack at that location. What seemed unusual was the way the crank pulley moved counter clockwise when one pulled up on the belt compressing the tensioner. The cam gear remained unmoved and the crank pulley backed up. It seems a lot of movement which would result in the syncronization of the two being compromised. Way too much to understand without some really good response from knowlegable folk.

The archives talk of valve interference if the crank and cam are turned improperly when the belt is off. I understand the importance of not unecessarily complicating the entire process. But I thought this B230F was a non interference engine and the valve /piston problem was not possible with the B230F as it would be with the 960.

If there is no possibilty of the two meeting IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH ROTATING THE CRANK AND CAM WITH THE BELT ATTACHED (( COUNTER CLOCKWISE )) TO LINE UP THE CRANK AT TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE AND THE CAM GEAR AT TDC. What would be damaged by the counter clokwise rotation of the engine during this time of aligning all of these marks over and over again.

Thanks for your time and the response to whatever you choose to talk about.

Pam and Bill