It's not like I didn't see it coming, the blower motor has squeaked on and off for 2+ years, so It was not much of a surprise when it quit. No blow at any speed. It only took me one day of driving without it to convince me a repair was unavoidable. The fuse was ok, so it had to come off:

Slide the passenger seat back, and recline the back untill it makes a comfortable legrest.

Remove the pasenger foot cover panel...hmmm, my car doesn't seem to have one.

The kick panel is in the way, unscrew the two phillips screws which affix it to the door pillar, bend the top tab out from under the upper doorway trim. While pushing the back tab forward out from under the sill plate, grab the lower forward corner of the kick panel, and bend it towards the middle of the car, it will slip right out.

Yank off the little rubber tube, and disconnect the purple wire spade connector from the motor.

Gather a nut driver, 9/32 socket(I always wondered what this one was for), 1/4" drive ratchet, and a short extension.

Undo the blower mounting bolts, starting at the front. If the ground wire is 1" from one of the regularly spaced hex screws, it can be left in place.

The blower motor housing must be rotated about half a turn before you can pull it down, and unscrew the ground wire if necessary.

Well, that was pretty easy, only took 20 minutes on my back, and the car isn't even too cold yet. Inspecting my blower motor, it looks OK, and spins fairly freely, so I hook it up to my jumpstart box. It kicks vigorously, and blows lots of air!

By the noise it had made, it seemed reasonable to assume the motor had died, but if this wasn't the case, why did it stop? A quick look around, and I saw this:

note 1 tab broken off, another has half a spade connector stuch to it, one wire has a burnt red cover, and another has a poor crimp job...wow, PO must have been here before me. The two bolts are for the lower passenger door hinge.

A little wiring repair...there was still a free tab, or I would have switched them all to fork style connectors. I gave the blower motor a good dose of silicone lube, and plugged it in. It ran great, So I reassembled everything, pretty much exact rerverse of removal. the airflow made kind of a loud noise which I traced to the resistor block (a 4 wire connector on the wall of the duct to the left of the blower motor). Tightened the screws holding the resistor to the duct, and it was better than ever.

Mission accomplished! I went to my dinner engagement, marveling at my quiet heat, wondering why I had waited so long to do this. Two hours later, on my way home, S Skweee Skweeeeek SkweeeeeeeEEEEEEEEEE!

They say pride comes before a fall...I am not too proud to go to Pick n Pull on half price day and spend $5.52 on a used blower motor. Tested on my 12v drill battery, it works like a champ! The second install was about 20 minutes, including the time it took to unscrew it and rotate one bolt hole further so the rubber tube would line up right...check it before you start bolting things together.

I folowed up on this repair by adjusting my sunroof, since I got the car, its been noisy on the highway, as the back sat a little low. my headliner is BEAT, so I pushed it up into the sunroof, and was able to loosen the sunroof-track screws, slide the roof up a hair and retighten. I think the PO did not know to adjust these after he restored the sunroof slide mechanism. Oh joyful luxurious car!

Always test, inspect and analyse the parts you replace. What was the failure(or was it not the problem), why did it fail, how can you prevent the same part from failing in the same way agin? I also test new parts before installing them, it saves a lot of hassles with returns. The guys at NAPA look at me a little funny when I ask them to test my new starter, but usualy do it. If not, I have jumper cables for that.