Compression test results

Conditions:

Engine fully warmed up (idled for 15 to 17 minutes)
Throttle wide open
Plugs out
Ignition coil negative lead removed
Fuel pump/computer fuse (#1) removed (to shut off injectors - didn't want fuel stink everywhere)

Average compression of two tests
#1 170psi
#2 55psi
#3 57psi
#4 175psi

All readings, including the laggards #2 and #3, "stepped" up to their max reading, going higher on each compression stroke until about the 4th or 5th stroke.

Putting the spark plug in either #2 or #3 when the other one of the two was under test did absolutely nothing to increase the pressure in the one being tested.

Adding oil to #2 did not increase max pressure at all. So why bother to check #3 with oil?

Have already started squirting the exhaust manifold nuts with PBlaster in anticipation of the fun and merriment that awaits me. When it fully cools back down, like tomorrow morning, I'm going to have at the engine compartment with engine cleaner and make it sparkle. There is lots of crud and sand in there and I don't want any getting in the areas that I'll be working in. Then squirt some more with PBlaster, and again, and again.

Since mine is a turbo, what do I do with the turbo when I remove the exhaust manifold? Can I leave the turbo in the car and hanging on the downpipe? It would save all the work of disconnecting all the stuff going to the turbo.

What should I look for on the head or top of the block, when I get that far, to tell what happened and to see if the head is warped or if it is just the gasket? What kind of straight edge do I use to check the head? Where do you get one?

Thoughts on whether or not I should replace the headbolts, and if so, a good source that is not too pricey? What about FCPGroton's headbolts? Is the FCPGroton head gasket really not as good as the Volvo or FelPro?

Thanks all.
--
Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)