I finally found a replacement brake booster/servo for my Amazon - a working MK2A unit from another 122. While I know that this particular unit is not the best servo int he world, I want to give the correct setup a try before I start droping cash on expensive aftermarket units. Overall, this is a much cheaper solution than finding another type of servo and fitting it to my system. I also have a full rebuild kit and a ton of spare parts for this booster, so I'm sticking with it for the time-being.

The replacement unit arrived today. I cleaned it up, cleaned the air filter element, and generally checked it over for any damage,evidence of corrosion, or gunk in the fittings.

Everything checked out so I hooked it up using the pics I have collected from cars with working servo units as a guide. I put a T connector in the PCV line coming from the flame trap and looping over the valve cover to the intake manifold. I installed the brake lines as shown in the Volvo manual and in the pics and everything seems to be fine.

Note: I have not yet bleed the lines (too dark) but I did try the booster out in the large lot behind my house. The first pump on the brakes is kinda weak, but the second pump stops the car on a dime. A very nice improvement in "grab."
I think my unit is in good shape. I expect the weak initial stop to go away as soon as I get the system fully bled out.

So my question is mainly regarding the bleeding process. Is there anything special I need to know about bleeding a car with this system? I used ot bleed out the system on my 1972 145 and it was very straightforward. It also had an integral booster and disc brakes all the way around. Does the car need to be running so the vacuum system is in effect? Any important warnings?

Thanks Much.


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1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?