The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Questions After Disassembly, Cleaning and Reassembly 120-130

Well, after monkeying around with these things for a few hours, taking them apart and looking through my 140 manual with the exploded carb diagram I think I understand this type of SU better. Simplicty is the hallmark of the SUs and this one may have a number of extra fittings, but it's a pretty simple mechanism - much like the HS6.

They arrived promptly today, wrapped in foam padding like little twin babies. So, I unwrap them and they are absolutely fithy (like most human babies). Covered in grim top to bottom. Looks like they were on a shelf for a while.
I had run across an article on rebuilding an HIF4 when they were all corroded and frozen, so I was expecting a horror show inside the bowl. Happily, this was not a problem. The inside of #1 was pristine clean. Perfect. #2 was a little less clean and featured some crystalized gasoline grit. Easily cleaned. I soaked and scrubbed the interiors and exteriors with Gum-Out. I used all of a single extra large can, but after a lot of scrubbing with wire and soft brushes, they came out looking very nice. Needles are present in both carbs - they are nice and straight and otherwise appear undamaged.

The only "issue" is that one of the dashpots and its accompanying piston is a bit out of round. It moved perfectly before I took it apart, but was binding up after re-assembly. It took a lot of playing around to get it back "just right" so that it moved freely again.

It also looks as if one of the carbs was rebuilt. The innards were a little different looking (plastic color) and someone put had put a washer under the jet bearing instead of over the bearing. Whether that's right or wrong, the two carbs had been put together differently. I imagine that they would not sync quite right. I switched the washer back to the top of the jet bearing as per the diagram on P.56 of the 140 series haynes manual. This prevents the jet bering from sitting flush with the bottom of the throttle chamber but it does follow the diagram in the manual. It does not effect the jet itself as far as I can tell. I adjusted them both and they still rise and fall with the mixture screw. Seems like they should sit flush, but they could not possibly sit flush if the Haynes diagram is correct - Any thoughts on this??

Also, I initially thought that the choke mechanism was missing from Carb #2, but upon close inspection, it looks as if the mechanism was NEVER installed. The screw holes are solid-cast. I played with it for a bit and it seems that a single choke cable would manipulate the throttle on both carbs. This is probably because the HIF6s use two linkages like the Stromberg Carbs - Can anyone confirm that there is only one choke?? [edit] it seems a bit more complicated than manipulating the throttle, can this work on a single carb?

So to review, I'm converting from dual HS6s to Dual HIF6s and need some advice on setup. I have a spare throttle control and linkage from a Dual Stromberg setup. one of the double-ended linkages is watsed, but the other is in good shape. I plan to replace the control linkage with the the stromberg unit and to swipe my HS6 throttle linkage and the good linkage from my strombergs. This should give me throttle. The fuel line setup is self-evident. So I'm left with setting up the vaccum hoses and such and this is where I'll need some help.

As per the Haynes diagram, the Hot-Start valves need to be connected to the "venting filter." Where, how, etc?

Similarly there is a big nipple on top of the intake flange of the #1 Carb to be connected to the "positive" venting filter. There is also a very small nipple on the bottom of the #2 intake flange. Where do these need to go?

What would really help me would be a picture of a fully configured set of HIF6s. I haven't had any luck googling images (all MGs)

Also, can I just swipe the dampers out of my HS6s? I'd prefer to get a new set, but they seem to be at a premium. And I still need a pair of heatshields...

Thanks for any advice/help that can offered!!











--
1967 P220 Amazon, 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 DL, 1986 745 GLE, 1990 745 GL, 1995 945....
You mean to tell me that Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.