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Closed Gasket... 120-130 1967

Hop on down to your local supplier and pick up a sheet (or roll if you plan on making many or large gaskets) of "gasket material." Typically trated paper product in varying compositions and thicknesses. In general, the "medium" weights are easier to work with as they are not as fragile as thinner stock and easier to cut than thicker stock. You may need to use thicker stock against some surfaces that have a rough surface (like unsanded cut blocks of plastic, "as-cast" or rough-shaped metal, slightly warped surfaces, etc...).

Tell your supplier what you want to do with it and they should be able to hand you a suitable product.

For small holes like for bolts or the carb breather holes, a set of punches or at least a a 5/16" punch is useful so you don't have to mess with the x-acto and get frustrated. A useful ersatz punch is a piece of steel plate (like 1/8" thick or thicker). Drill holes in it in various sizes and use a ball-peen hammer (the round end) to "cut" the hole to the appropriate size. A 1/2" pin-punch with sharp (not rounded off) edges mounted in a vice is useful for the larger holes by using the hammer again and "working" around the hole. This is good for irregular shaped punchings too.

g'luck.

Oh, sloppy holes aren't too big an issue so long as they don't "slop" over the seal zone (make a leak) or the flow zone (create an obstruction).
--
Mike!






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