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Your brake system has two (2) separate hydraulic "circuits".
One circuit takes care of the Left Rear and the 2 Upper pistons on each front caliper. The other circuit does the Right Rear and the 2 Lower pistons on each front caliper.
The 1971 140 greenbook sequence looks weird (read out-dated) to me. The 240 brakes are the same, so I'd follow the 240 sequence:
First: LR, LF upper nipple — RF upper nipple. (one circuit, 3 bleeders)
Then: RR, RF inner, RF outer — LF inner, LF outer (the other circuit, 5 bleeders)
IMO, either circuit can be done first, but I use this one because it's in the book.
WARNING: Before you start bleeding, go around and make sure you can open each bleeder nipple—and that some fluid comes out. A stuck, plugged, or broken bleeder half way thru the job takes a lot of the fun out of it.
Steadily increasing force on a stubborn bleeder is most likely to break it off. In my experience, sudden shock is more effective. I apply moderate (2-finger) pressure to a small box-end wrench while tapping the end with a small/medium hammer—simulating the action of a mini impact tool.
IMO, penetrating oils are a waste of time until you get some tiny wrench movement. Usually just going back and forth with the wrench works for me.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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