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I thought I'd start another thread as I now have some data on the fuel pump amp current draws. This time I had the meter set up correctly. I did the test this morning while the car was cold. The outside temp was also cold (in the high 40s.)
1) Pre-pump
Using the IPD Tech Tip I removed the #4 fuse and used my DMM leads across the terminals. The Tech Tech said the current draw for LH-jet type injection should be between 3-4 Amps. On start-up mine read 3.6 and then drifted down to 2.95 which seems to be in the ballpark. No problems on start-up
2) Main pump.
I removed the #6 fuse and again bridged the terminals with the leads of the DMM. The Tech Tip said the draw should be 6.5 Amps. This time I had a bit of a problem reading the meter. On first try the meter wasn't reading anything but the bar at the bottom of the meter (Fluke 179) was lined out. I had it on the manual 6 scale(?). There is also an auto scale and a manual 10 scale. After several stops and starts I finally got a reading of around 8.5 Amps on the manual 10 scale. If I was doing it right then the main pump is drawing too much current. During this phase of the test I'd started the car for the third and fourth time and during these starts I have to put my foot on the gas pedal to keep the car running. Once it catches after about 30 seconds I can take my foot off and the car will idle.
I also noted that the fuse terminal on the right side has gotten hot enough to melt the plastic fuse mounting frame and turn it black in the area immediately around this terminal.
One poster before thought I had a bad check valve. I'm thinking bad main pump and putting a new check valve in too. Also is it possible that the pre-pump is working but the internal rubber hose hooked to it has a hole in it, so it's not really delivering fuel to the main pump? Could that be why the main pump is working so hard? If that were the case and I had to go into the fuel tank I'm thinking I might as well put a new pre-pump in.
Ideas?
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