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Changing to fuel injection involves getting the correct fuel pumps & fuel lines, the intake manifold including injector rail & fuel pressure regulator, intake hoses, air mass meter & airbox, knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, distributor, wiring harnesses, fuel and ignition computers, fuel pump relay, probably a couple other bits & pieces and a bit of rewiring from the ignition switch and fuse panel. Ideally replace the entire wiring harness... or get really well-acquainted with the wiring diagrams. Or get an aftermarket system like Megasquirt, you'd still need the manifold & fuel pumps though. Way more work than just fixing yours right - even if, worst-case scenario, you just get another carb. It really sounds to me like a float height issue though, I don't know anything about that particular carb but carburetor principles are pretty much universal - there's usually a metal tang that can be bent one way or the other to set the correct float height - so it closes the needle valve supplying fuel to the bowl before it floods, but not so early as to starve it for fuel. The idea is to keep a constant fuel level in the bowl. If the float is set too low (closing off supply early) there'll be air in the bowl and on cornering the air gets drawn up instead of fuel - stalling the car. I've seen carbs set way too rich to compensate for float level problems, and it solves nothing - the car still stalls in corners but runs way too rich the rest of the time. See if you can find specs somewhere for setting float height in your carb. Best of luck!
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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