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Hi Mike,
Your reading of 1.6V at rest is the most telling measurement, and it is a good one, judging from my experience. But as Bruce says, the adjustment screw is not right.
I have managed to bring a couple -002s back to life, due mostly to their unique circuit layout giving access to a point on the hybrid circuit where the amplifier's offset may be trimmed. Your father-in-law would find this no more difficult than changing that ECU transistor was. But my goal was to achieve the kind of output-at-rest yours already has. This reading doesn't completely qualify the AMM over the range of airflow, but it is a good indicator of the effects of contamination the thin-film circuit suffers with age and heat.
Also, I can't recall ever being able to change the fuel system's mixture by that adjustment so much that it noticeably affects performance, but I didn't try very hard either. Most noticeably, it affects whether you pass emissions testing.
Chris is correct, you must use the test point to set that pot, or a meter on the lambda sensor, but the LED tool won't work directly on your LH2.0, as it does on his LH2.2 car. But before that, you'll need to fix the pot. Under the plastic cover, you'll see an "S" shaped beryllium-copper spring used as a coupling between the adjustment screw and the potentiometer inside. I'm thinking it may just be knocked out of place.
I'd recommend you find another AMM in a yard or auction before risking the one you have. It will make a quick drop-in comparison and possibly a good spare. No harm in setting it to 300 ohms if you don't want the hassle of measuring the feedback. Lucky numbers never hurt anyone.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead to know basis.
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