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First check all your fuses.
The copper-brass ones hold up pretty well, the gray-white ones corrode much easier. One of them supplies the fuel injection and computer systems.
Aside from replacing any blown fuses, spin them all in their holders. It helps them get better contact.
Another likely culprit is the fuel pump relay. About 1/2 the size of a pack of cigarrettes, maybe 1x2x3 inches. White. It's under the glove box, on passenger's kick panel. You pull down the felt that's under the dash, and pull down the carpeting going up to the glove box. You should find the relay clipped to the panel (back side of firewall) - or maybe hanging by its wires.
Best way to test is to replace with a known good one. As in, from a friend's working 240. '85 - 93 took the same relay. Or buy new, but we're trying to not buy stuff just to try it.
Geez. Another possibility would be a timing belt that came apart. In these cars, this does not damage the engine, though replacing the belt costs a couple hundred dollars or more. It's under a 2-piece plastic cover at the front of the engine. There's a plug you can pull to get a look inside. You might even be able to pull a couple screws and pull the cover away far enough to see inside. Belt is about an inch wide and runs near the outer edge of the cover in most places.
You can also verify a bad timing belt if you can disable the ignition system (which I don't know how, on the '92). That accomplished, you can pull off the distributor cap and watch the distr's rotor spin from the driver's seat while you crank the engine. If not turning, the belt is gone.
You also can have a failed RPM sensor, also called crank position sensor. Someone else please write this part, I've gotta get back to work here.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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