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Actually, I got to take both carbs apart again today. It was sunny out (73 degrees) and I wasn't bone tired, so I took my time to examine this connection.
You're partly right with the rubber grommet, but that's not the secret to getting a solid connection.
If you unscrew the barrel nut and slide it back, you can pull the fuel tube out easily. Look inside the float bowl opening, and you'll see the rubber grommet, a small steel washer, and the central brass tube the fuel line slips over.
Here's how to do it right:
Get a grip on the fuel line, making sure the end of the hose you're going to push into the fitting isn't deformed or spread. It has to be the same diameter as the rest of the tube or you simply can't attach it right.
Slide the barrel nut onto the hose, then put the tiny steel washer onto the fuel line, too.
Keeping the protective spring sleeve pulled back, install the fuel line onto the brass fitting on the float bowl.
You should have the following setup: fuel line running through the barrel nut, through the steel washer, and onto the brass fitting on the float bowl.
Keeping pressure on the hose to prevent it sliding out until the connection is tight, thread the barrel nut into the float bowl. The barrel nut will press the steel washer down until it comes to the part of the hose that is on the brass fitting.
The hole in the washer is too small to go past the end of the hose that's on the brass fitting; and as you tighten the barrel nut, it tries to push the washer past the fitting. It won't go. Tighten the barrel nut securely, but not TOO tight.
Too much pressure will actually push the retaining washer past the hose connection and the fuel line will then pull out easily.
There's no way you can do this task with the carbs on the car; you'll need to have the carbs upside-down to see what you're doing and have enough space to work. Plan on an afternoon to remove them, fix the fuel lines, clean and set up the carbs.
Now I have no more fuel leaks - and I think the last 'mechanic' to work on the carbs screwed up the fuel lines. Looking through the repair receipts, I see the PO was charged for a 'rebuild kit' which included a new set of jets.
Also, since I also took advantage of the down time to clean the carbs, I found some other problems I was able to fix. The fast idle screw on the front carb had been bent over (out of the way) so the front carb didn't contribute anything during choke usage. Also, every adjustment screw was liberally gunked up with silicone sealant covering the screw heads and friction springs. That took some time and small tools to clean up!
The carbs are both tuned identically now, the linkage is properly set (it had been bent to accomplish something - perhaps trying to set an idle speed with just the linkage?)
I took the car out for a good long run, checking under the hood a couple of times to ensure nothing untoward was occuring. It runs much better than it ever has.
Before I call the job 'complete' I want to thread the holes where the air filters screw on. I'll change from bolts, lockwashers, and nuts to a very simple bolt w/radial lockwasher setup. This will vastly simplify the work needed hwen tuning the carbs, since taking the filters off and on is a good 1/2 the job!
When I get to this part of the job - in a few days - I'll start another post with pictures.
Thanks for the input!
Steve
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