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Think of electricity and cars as if it was plumbing in your house. If it leaks out somewhere it won't get to someplace else. If you don't have water pressure coming in (the house)you cannot expect it to be at any faucets. If you don't have pressure at a faucet it is probably because there is a break BEFORE that faucet. In a car, the battery is the supply and the alternator keeps the supply while you use it. The difference between a house and a car is that you can usually see the puddles or spray....not so much in a car! The 12v test light will tell you most everything you need to know to diagnose where the "break" lies. First check the fuse box. Poke the light around to make sure you have juice coming in and going out. I have a new NAPA bayonnet style fuse box and even when they look fine ...a little jiggle might make the juice beging flowing again. Once you are sure the juice is coming out of the box, go to where you want it to come out (Ignition / key)if you have it there now go to the coil and see if when the key is on .... the terminal will light the test light. This proves your car will start when the motor turns. To test the starter, there is a light wire with a small female end that goes onto a tab on the solinoid on top of the starter. When this gets 12v it shoves the starter into the flywheel and turns the motor. If you connect a wire from the positive side of the battery to this "tab" you will turn the engine... if all other tests worked, your car will start if the ignition / key is on. If it does ...but not when you turn the key.... the key switch is bad. I installed a starter(push) button from NAPA so I didn't have to deal with the ignition switch (it's 50 years old!)One wire from 12v and the other goes to the tab on the solinoid.
Christopher
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