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Or How I installed Keyless Entry in her 245.
What do you get for the girl who has everything? Keyless entry of course, as none of her cars have ever had it. Anything to spoil Maria!
So I've been stripping out this 89 240, and got to the very center of the dashboard... I wound up with a few key parts in my hand: the entire wiring of the power lock system, consisting of the 2 relays, a green +12V input wire, a single ground terminal, a 3-wire harness to the driver's door switches, and 2 output harnesses, one to the passenger front door and one plug that heads down the center console to the rear locks.
I also had the right front door apart, and grabbed the power lock motor, plus it's wiring harness right into the car, ending under the glovebox.
I've really never looked at this system in depth, but sure enough with a a little wiggling, fiddling, and creative snipping, I was able to retrieve the entire system and figure out how this whole thing works.
It's really simple: The driver's door, first of all has no power lock motor. The door is only locked and unlocked with the key or the interior knob, and only if the door is latched: mechanically interlocked. The key cylinder and the lock knob switch work in parallel - either can energize the lock relays in either direction. The lock motors are in fact, motors, not solenoids, and run on 12V power, reversible to obtain movement in a locking or unlocking direction.
So.... First off, you need a way to run the driver's door lock. For this, you want a right front lock motor from a 240. For right hand drive cars, of course, you'd want a left front door lock motor.
There's a 2-wire plug to remove, 2 8mm (M5?) bolts, and a clip on the rod where the motor rod clips to the rest of the linkage. Some of the electric plugs are a bit stiff to remove but a jewelers screwdriver helps. Take the bracket off the motor (2 phillips) and flip it over and screw it to the opposite side of the motor- mirror image from the original location. Take off the rod from the motor, flip it over, and clip it back on. Grab the length of wiring that goes through the door wiring duct. You need the right kick panel off for this, and you probably have to tear into the black cardboard stuff to get at the entire harness. It's looped around a bracket on purpose.
Now, I decided, though it's certainly not necessary, to make this job easy and simple. I was going to use factory connectors wherever possible, and natural places to break connectors or tap into circuits. In the end, I had ZERO splices of the factory harnesses, in the recipient car anyway.
I cut off a couple connectors to make what I wanted: a completely transparent and removable system that did not interfere with the existing door switches or function. I saved the "door" side of the 3-wire molex plug running under the instrument panel, with a single green, red, and black in it. I cut its mate from the relay harness once I had all the circuit figured out.
I saved the lower half of the plug to the rear doors and hatch. This lives right next to the turn signal relay, just inboard of the bottom of the center console kick panel by the driver's right foot. Its mate is a 2- wire T shaped plug straight from the outputs of the two relays.
Here's the circuit: a green +12 feed, and a black ground feed the relays. A ground wire (black) and a red and green wire leave the relay coils and go to the door switches. They branch at a connector in the door to connect to the push-pull door lock rod switch and the key cylinder switch, in parallel. The new keyless control unit is going to connect to the green and red, and just as the switch does, the controller needs to ground one wire for lock, and the other for unlock.
Output of the relays is a group of yellow and blue wires. These are consistent to the lock motors. Yellow +, blue - is to lock, blue +, yellow - drives the motors in the unlock direction.
Installing the motor is independent of installing the controller. You could have a motor in there and never know it. You have to pull up on the lock knob pretty hard to trip the unlock. The motor installs to the driver's door with zero problems. Well, don't lose the clip into the bottom of the door. The harness requires you to fish the thing through the door wiring duct. This requires that you pull the kick panel, driver's side, and remove the fusebox. 2 screws, and nothing scary happens. Remove a battery cable before attempting, especially if you're not familiar with wiring and electricity. There's cardboard or tar paper behind it, and behind that is where the wires come through the door jamb. It slips through from the door side of things pretty painlessly. Getting the wires over the others and tucked in is a little bit tedious but it all fits. Have a good light source handy.
I made up a length of harness to extend the new door lock wires and connect them into the rear lock outputs. I used the wiring from the donor car relays and the two connectors to make a T shaped harness of the yellow and blue lock power wires. One plug has the two yellows and two blues on it, so its easy and simple work on the bench using a handful of butt splices. Connect one male connector right to one female; connect the other with a long length of yellow/blue harness to the remaining pair of wires. Match everything yellow-yellow and blue-blue, and you'll have no trouble. The long end of this needs to be long enough to reach to the end of the door-hinge wiring you just installed. Mine ended up just to the left of the steering column. Locate and unplug your rear lock connector in the recipient car. Mine was tucked up close to the heater control, down near the carpet.
At this point, if everythings right, the relays will activate this new door motor along with the rest. You can't get it to work with the door open normally, so try this- flip the catch in the drivers door as if it were closed (it flips up). Now the door will lock and unlock if you work the door switch. Make sure polarity is right, and the door motor locks and unlocks when the others do. If everything is blue-to-blue all the way, you'll have no trouble.
My controller exactly matched the red and green wires when used as Volvo did it: green to the greens, red to the reds. I made a splice "T" of the red and green wires to the connector from my control box. The black wire I just connected straight through in the two 3-pin connectors. This connection goes inline where the door switch connects to the relays- again just to the left of the column. Again, after it's connected, check that the door switches work normally. Should be no problem.
My controller was a simple one (sold by J0-DI's Mobile Electronics, btw) that only required power, ignition power, and ground to work. It had a whole slew of other outputs, that can run lights directly, beep the horn, do remote start, fire other relays, but I *only* wanted it for its power lock function.
Since I had the fuseblock and kick panel out, connection to this was easy. Red battery power lead to fuse 9, yellow (ignition power) from fuse 5, black to an under-dash screw. The fuses were only selected for function and availability- neither has much of anything on them.
At this point, the unit worked. Right out of the box, no programming or other stuff. Later, as I buttoned up, I decided to install the blinking LED provided into the top of the steering column, over the turn signal switch roughly. Fished that through the column by the instrument wires and plugged into control box. Very simple. The LED blinks when the unit locks. There are other outputs and I may add a horn beep or a parking light blink in the future. Theres a whole separate "Accessory" function and a 4th output to consider.
For now though, this plain-jane wagon has something most folks don't- usually only found on the 850, 960, and newer models. I'm happy, my wife is ecstatic, and the car looks 100% stock- the LED is tiny and easy to miss when the car is unlocked.
Long enough post I guess and I've been up 24 hours so enjoy this and any questions I'll answer tonight- I'm off to get some sleep.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 87 244DL- 249K, 88 245DL- 181K, 84 242DL, 89 244DL parts, SOLD: 86 244, 88 244GL, 87 244, 91 244, 82 245T, 88 744GLE, 86 244
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