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Just to add to the “lore”, I will tell my story about fixing the “dip-stick eruption”. After reading the excellent material in the FAQ section, I decided to remove the intake manifold in order to get to the breather system. So, while I was at it, I had the injectors cleaned and calibrated (one was operating at 86% efficiency, according to RC Engineering). Also since I have had this intermittent no-start problem and I had replaced just about everything else over the last year, I replaced the RPM sensor. Also had to replace the brake vacuum line and the heater hose. I replaced the filter assembly but not the chamber below since it is the big version and I ran some air through it to make sure that it came out freely at the valve cover. After putting it together (I thought), I drove it across LA and it tended to idle erratically, heater wouldn’t heat, and the trans shifted at too high an RPM. First, I had forgotten to connect the idle switch connector, the plastic vacuum line to the heater valve had cracked, and the trans kickdown cable sleeve had broken loose from the end fitting. I cluged up a new sleeve to keep the trans cable aligned with the end fitting and utilized the good info in the FAQ’s to readjust the cable. . That particular part of the engine compartment really is a rat’s nest, but all is well that ends well. By the way it seems to start every time but I will not declare victory over the no-start problem for a couple of weeks.
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