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Since we have the same car, I can be specific. I bought a Hopkins (Hoppy) #46255 powered taillight converter for $29.95.
Wiring battery power: I looked at the fuse box inside the cabin and found that fuse #16 was marked “telephone” and “parking heater” - both in parentheses (an unused, fuse-protected circuit!) I ran a single wire from the taillight converter box (in the left storage well in the back of the car) to the fuse box. Then, I disconnected the battery, pulled out the fuse block, cut one of the wires coming off the #16 fuse and spliced in the new wire to provide battery power to the taillight converter. There is just the one power connection between the taillight converter box and fuse #16. I hope that was clearer than what I wrote the first time.
I didn’t think to look on the right side for the CD changer connector. If you actually have a CD changer back there, I would definitely NOT piggyback the trailer lights onto the same circuit. Trailers and delicate electronics are not a good match. You have given me an idea for installing an accessory port (cigarette lighter) back by the rear gate....
Finding the wires: I took off the molded panel ABOVE the left storage well to get easy access to the wires. As usual, taking off the trim took more time than doing the work. First pull off the trim on the pillar (I think it pulled straight off). Then remove the trim buttons on the pillar and on the other side of the panel (by the seat belt tensioner). Seems like there were 3 snap-in's to pop – spaced equally across the panel about 2-3 inches below the window. Finally slide the panel to the rear to unhook the far right corner.
Now you can see what I called the “distribution relay”. I think there was one wire for the brake lights and then separate right taillight / left taillight wires. The relay was marked so the inputs are just a wire number and the outputs are marked with the number plus “L”, “R”, or “H”. There might have been available outputs that you could just plug into, but didn’t even look to tell you the truth. I went “upstream” toward the fuel-filler pipe and found the right colored wires to tap. I’m curious how the official Volvo installation works – I’d hate to think that there is a pre-wired receptacle somewhere just waiting to be plugged in….
I left the taillight converter box (it’s about 3x5 x 3/8” thick) inside the storage well – velcro’d to the top of the black vent shroud. I ran the pigtail out the vent and across the bottom, but probably should have just left it in the well and made the connection across the rear door when needed.
By the way I bought a “Hidden Hitch” on the web for $130. I’m sure a junkyard would be cheaper. I fit perfectly using the existing threaded holes. Luckily I had an old round wire brush to clean the undercoating and dirt from the threads on the right side.
Hope that helps with your installation....
-Mike
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