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The car is coming closer to its first state inspection, after sitting since 2003....
I worked through a no-start issue, a (false) batery drain, currenct loss to the ignition switch, poor battery-to-earth, and now have tried my best to balance and tune the twin SU HS6 carbs.
Here are the issues remaining before inspection:
1. Good Idle/Fast Idle/Won't Idle:
Gas tank applied Fuel System Cleaner on its first full tank full. refilled tank with 89 Octane and Lead Additive.
Engine timed to 10 BTDC, warm idle set at 800 RPM. Tune carbs. Test Drive with new cap, rotor and plugs (wires were OK). Engine operated nicely, no hesitation, sputter, etc. Return home = engine is idling at 2,000 RM's and retarded to 30 BTDC. Find no mechanical hang up. Turn engne off, restart, 2,000 RPM's. Scratch head. Car finds it's way down to 1,000 RPM's without any reason. Reset idle screws for 800, try timing at 5 BTDC (Haynes Manual spec), test drive. Idle now 1,000 still. turn it off, restart. It won't idle even on warm restarts unless I apply throttle -- and even that is rough.
What the Heck?
2. Brake pipe unions leaving new ATE master cylinder are leaking. Have them as tight as I dare. Is there any kind of "pipe dope" I can use to seal these?
3. Steering wheel cocked to "1 o'clock" position. Car drives straight. Brakes don't bind. (my 740 also exhibits this, right after a fresh alignment yet!) What causes/cures this? Tires all good.
4. Loud (enough) high-pitched whine in drive train. Pretty much right under driver. Constant under load; loudest, monentarily, right as I let off throttle. Rear end known to have lube. (I didn't yet check the M40 fluid level) I'm thinking dry U-Joint(s)?
5. Hey! The horn and reverse light work now! (wiggled the connections at the ignition switch) But missing instrument lights for: High beam, turn signals, flasher switch, etc., but AMP and Oil at "ON" position work.
Is there a way to replace the bulb in the Flasher pull-switch?
Sorry for the long list, but I need to get this thing closer to "ON THE ROAD"!
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