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With all that gear, a spec alignment might be the thing, as long as the car is measured straight and all the bushings and tie rods and balljoints are new, but...
I wrestled with alignment until I decided that spec wouldn't cut it. Apparently the spec did not take into account the fact that wider flatter tires, and slightly different offsets have a marked effect on handling and feel.
I'll try to do this from memory. Unless you can tweak the frame, I would start with toe-in set to zero, then see which way it wants to go, and how quickly. Mine went too quick to the left, so I added camber shims to both upper bolts. I believe this reduced the camber, and put tire flatter on ground instead of on outside edge. 1 mm makes noticeable differences.
I would be careful of changing caster, which you should do from the crossmembermounts. Bending the a-arm mount bolts while turning could be ill-advised.
One of the great things about this car is the ease of adjusting camber.
With the car on the ground, it is just possible to get a 3/8 ujoint and a 5/8 (?) socket under the a-arm to loosen and tighten the a-arm bolts.
Of course, the group will say that a "good-feeling" car is not necessarily a fast car, but those are the trade-offs.
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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL
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