The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Torquing rear suspension 200

I just spent the last 2 rainy days changing all of the rear bushings in my 240. The book says to torque them all when the vehicle is at ride height. I don't know about you guys, but I'm not going to fit under that car when it's on the ground. I wanted to put the rear wheels on ramps and torque up the stuff that way. Any problems with that method? Oh, one note: I made the bushing puller tool that's been floating around here and after a few adjustments, it worked great. The only problem I have is that I didn't realize the axle bushings have to be "Clocked" until I installed one wrong, so I have to push it out and turn it tomorrow. What is the purpose of those hole in the rubber and why do they have to be clockes? Anyone know?






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.