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I believe the early sedans didn't have a rear sway.
In other words, its kind of optional.
So if you take it and the rear bar breaks, I think it's not undrivable.
If the rust is just a thin skin of rust, I wouldn't consider that a problem at all. If it's eaten away at the metal to where it's thinner than your stock bar, then you might be better off with the stock rear bar.
As for performance with unmatched sway bars, I saw a post on this recently where someone mentioned the rear end breaking away more easily with a stock rear sway and an upgraded front one. He was very happy with that but I think I prefer the more neutral handling of a matched set. My IPD sways do give a stiffer ride than stock but I really like the steadier control that they give in quick and hard turns and swerves.
Also have a look at the ends of the rusty rear bar - is there a weld there? I can't remember if its welded or bent there. Anyway, if there'a weld that's been weakened by rust that would be a concern.
Be sure to take the front bushings and clamps. Bushings for the fatter bar should be different from your stock ones. May as well take the front end links with bushings too while you're at it.
Have a look at the splash pan on the donor too. Might be better than yours. They like to self-destruct.
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Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, e-codes, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).
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