The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Broken Neck (long) 120-130

Hmmm. I wonder if someone let the rear of the engine down too far when doing the clutch and forgot about the stress on the radiator neck. I usually just unbolt the radiator and let it twist down with the engine.

Anyway, if you do choose to solder it yourself just make sure the surfaces are VERY clean. Yes use soldering paste and I would suggest 50/50 (lead / tin) solder since it has a lower melting point than "lead free". I found it easier to use on old radiators with their thin walls. Because the walls are thin, you won't need as much heat.

This has worked for me.
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.