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"Alot of people have suggested checking the fuel pump relay switch under the glove box but would that cause the engine to not turn over at all with the key?"
No -- but neither would the other 2 items you question:
1) Where is the main ignition/fuel injection fuse?
Is it with the others behind the panel on drivers floor left?
Ans: It should be Fuse #6. Clean/burnish the fuse ends and contacts, and pinch the contacts towards each other (fuse out) to improve contact tension.
2) could it be a bad ignition coil or coil wire? If so how would I know if its bad.
Ans: Ignition problems (no-start) are seldom seen on 200 series. But the RPM sensor (aka Crank Position sensor) is a known failure item after 10 or 12 years. See the 700/900 FAQ (same engine) for details. It costs about $30 at FCPGroton.
Starter Test:
To test starter/cranking, there is an easier way than shorting to solenoid with a screwdriver. There is a wire terminal called a "Service Socket" where you can apply +12V from the battery to energize the solenoid.
Look for a "pigtail" wire about 6" long coming out of the main harness bundle that crosses the upper firewall. The wire is Pink but may be inside a black sleeve. The end is a female spade/faston terminal in a black or blue plastic housing.
But this SS jumper terminal still gets to the solenoid by way of a relay that replaces(?) the former mechanical Safety/Reverse shifter switch -- and is somehow tied into the Shift Lock circuits, which I'm not yet familiar with. So problems there will prevent cranking, even from the Service Socket.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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