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Part II - Remote keyless install:
By the way, I'm in the middle of this job for my 92. I have the door motor installed and just need to add the control unit.
Ok, open up the driver's door, and also remove the under dash carpet, the weatherstripping, the left kick panel and fuse cover, and the left side of center console. For 90+ cars, remove the two covers and torx bolts, remove the knee bolster.
You need to make up a plug that can be tapped into the blue/yellow lock wires. Take your plugs cut from the parts car, and connect with splices so that one male, one female plug, and the wiring from the lock motor harness (where you cut it off under the glovebox) are spliced together- connect all yellow wires together, connect all blue wires together. I use crimp butt-splices like the ones available at Radio Shack or other suppliers. Make sure all wires are secure and insulated from each other and the rest of the car. You should have basically this t-shaped harness with a long lead for the new motor, and a male and female plug. You'll unplug one of the other lock motors, and plug this new piece in like an extension cord.
Install the new motor in the driver's door. You'll have to unscrew and flip the bracket to the other side of the motor. (Two phillips head screws). Remove the clip on the lock rod, and flip it over at the motor end. Where the driver's door lock rod (with cylindrical switch) connects to the lock assembly, remove its snap clip and attach the top of this lock rod. Then clip the clip back on. Two 8mm nuts to mount the motor to the door.
To pull the wiring harness through your door hinge, you'll almost certainly need to remove the fuse box. Don't be too scared, it's not as hard as it sounds. Two screws hold it on. It's a very good idea to disconnect the battery before doing this. That way, no worries. With a little fishing, the motor harness will push right through the rubber wiring bellows. The wires all come in the car behind the fusebox, then go straight up, then in towards their connectors. You'll also see the red/black/green lock switch wires in this area, so identify that connector in your car while in the area.
Pull the motor wires across and add your new long T harness, routing it either down to the rear door connector along the center console, or across the dash to the right door plug under the glovebox. Once it's connected, you can reinstall the fuse box and reconnect the battery to verify the action of the lock motor.
Note that the lock motor is still prevented from moving MECHANICALLY when the door is open, just like your door button can't be pushed down in the driver's door. It's the same interlock. However you should see the motor pulling on the rod. If you close the door and push the lock button you should feel the motor lock and unlock the door.
If it works fine, you can button up the door and the side of the center console. Leave the fusebox open for now.
The Controller:
Typically the controller comes with a whole bunch of wires. The ONLY THINGS YOU NEED are +12V Power, Ground, and the lock and unlock wires. These were red and green in the units I worked with. All the wires for lights, additional locks, trunk poppers, horn beeps, remote starters, alarm interlocks, etc are NOT NEEDED. On mine there was a huge plug with all these wires and a tiny one with just red and green. You're going to make another T wiring harness with the 3-pin connector snipped out of the parts car. Connect red to red in the plugs and splice in the red from the remote harness. Connect green to green and the green from the remote controller. Connect black to black in the connectors. Locate a grounding point under the dash- any screw on the black sheetmetal pieces is fine. There's also a ground terminal way up to the left by the hood release, but use any that's convenient. COnnect power to the 12V or + wire (or wires) of the controller. You need to connect this to a NON-SWITCHED or BATTERY source from the fusebox. Check your fuse listing. Typically in a 240 the Green wires are circuits for accessories that are on all the time. You'll probably need a standard 1/4 inch female spade terminal (aka push-on terminal) to connect in the fusebox. Run the wire over the driver's knee and down the kick panel along with all the other fusebox wires. Fuse 8 or 9 would be a good location to get power from. Just plug it in. Reinstall the fuse box if not done already, connect the battery, reinstall the cover to the kick panels. Locate the control box and its antenna up in the dashboard behind the instruments. There is some space up there. You may want to use tie-wraps to keep it in place. Replace the carpet stuff under the dash and try it out.
Remember the door lock won't lock with the door open, so try it with the door closed. Mine works from inside or outside the car, up to about 40 feet away. I also used one accessory function of my controller- it came with a small LED indicator to tell when it's locked. I installed this on the left top of the steering column cover. Drilling a small hole and snapping the LED in place is all that was required, then pushing the wire through the steering column to the control box and plugging it in. Very very tiny wires on these if you have one.
Hope this helps the install! Good luck!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-207K ::: 90 745GL-M47-268K ::: 88 245DL-AW70-230K ::: 88 244 SOLD! 87 244 SOLD! Still looking for a bright red or black 244 with sunroof...
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