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Your car should have the LH injection. The adjustments are very simple, and "tweaking" from correct only makes them wrong. This is the order they need to be done.
First is the mechanical throttle stop; With link disconnected, the screw is backed off until the throttle place just makes contact with the bore (faint sticking when moved) and then turned approximately 1/4-1/3 turn down (to prevent the plate from closing all the way). Hold screw and tighten jam nut.
Idle switch. The switch will have an audible click when coming just off the idle stop and again when closing the throttle. If it does this dependably within a few degrees of motion, it is right. It has two positions - closed = idle, open = not idle. It is not a linear output. Its purpose is to tell the ECU which mode to be in for static timing and IAC operation.
Linkage; it should not pull the throttle off its stop when the drum is at its stop. Accelerator cable is adjusted to provide 90° opening with pedal fully to carpet (you need a helper's foot for this step). You need to remove the intake hose and look at the throttle plate with a mirror to do this one. These adjusments should not need touching again for the life of the car.
Ignition timing checked with idle switch closed.
Idle speed is adjusted with the bypass valve on the throttle body (black knob). Either ground the test wire or squeeze off one of the IAC hoses to disable auxiliary air. Turn the black knob in/out for 650-700 RPM on warm engine. Remove grounding wire or hose blockage. You're done.
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