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Some tips and tricks for the timing belt job:
First, read the FAQ, as the 700/900 red block is virtually identical to the job you're about to do. The 200 does require correct alignment of the intermediate shaft- the 700 doesn't care because it doesn't drive the distributor there.
1) Remove the fan and shroud first. 4x 10mm nuts on the fan. 2x crappy rusty phillips screws holding the shroud to the radiator. Don't be like me and drill one out and put a little hole in the radiator. Oops. These sheet metal screws are often in poor condition. Once the fan's off, slide the pulley off the water pumps studs, and leave the belt adjustment alone. If replacing belts, you will probably need to adjust the alternator, but if reusing old ones, you don't need to move the adjuster. Leave the AC belt for now, too.
2) Getting the crank bolt loose. I prefer to use a breaker bar and 15/16" socket, positioned so that it will hit the ground as the engine rotates, and bump the starter. If you're looking at the front of the engine, position the breaker bar at about the 5:00 position. Obviously the splash pan needs to be removed first. Note the engine turns clockwise when viewed from the front. One or two seconds on the starter will break it loose normally. Remove the pulley and get the 3 belts off. The AC belt will just come off with the pulley- it's not necessary to mess with the difficult AC adjusters if the belt is not being replaced. The AC-to-PS belt can be changed easily now.
3) Timing covers require 10mm and 12mm sockets for each half. One M6 bolt over water pump, one in the middle, one M8 near the bottom of the top cover. Cover won't come off till the water pump pulley is off. Then the bolt under the water pump is 10mm, the one close to the AC is 12mm. The lower cover won't come off till the crank pulley is off.
4) Break loose the cam sprocket bolt, holding against the timing belt. I use a 17mm wrench (some models use different sizes, so check) and tap it with a hammer to release it. Every so often you get one that's very tight. I've had to use a strap wrench to hold it on one car. An impact wrench will remove it easily, if you have one that fits in there. Same deal for the intermediate shaft. Realign all three pulleys to timing marks once the sprocket bolts are loose.
5) I loosen the tensioner nut now, compress it using a big pry bar, and insert a #0 phillips screwdriver into the hole in the tensioner. Remove the timing belt. If replacing the tensioner, you might want to now compress it again, remove the screwdriver, and release spring tension in a controlled manner. That way it doesn't fly all over the driveway. The new one does not include the spring and rod, just the bearing and roller. Remove the sprockets, don't lose any washers in front or behind them, and the crank pulley, bolt, belt guide washers, and crank sprocket.
6) Pull off the back timing cover. It's got a snap in pin somewhere in the middle of the back. I use a pick, small screwdriver, or the Craftsman "cotter pin puller" tool to get old seals out. Some are easy, some are stuck. If there are leaks I wouldn't hesitate to do all three. CLean the end of each shaft, especially if they show any hard varnish.
7) Clean everything up with solvent or in a parts washer or pan. If the covers are full of oil, they'll be a real mess. Clean the whole front of the engine, using scrapers, brake cleaner, whateever, get it good and clean.
8) Grease each seal as you install it. I use silicone grease, or motor oil. Mainly you don't want the inner lip to catch up on the shaft, and you want it to slide easily into the head or block. The cam seal I can do easily with my fingers. The intermediate shaft is always a bit more difficult. The crank seal is very tough, and I've never been able to do it by hand. You can drive it in VERY CAREFULLY using a blunt object, a socket, a brass punch, etc. Lately I've started using the pulley, crank sprocket, back washer, and the old removed seal, all lined up with the new seal, and draw it all in using the crank bolt. This is a little finicky to line up, but otherwise installing the crank seal is very frustrating, I find. It wants to go any way except straight in. It can also go in too deep with other techniques.
9) Recheck all timing marks, put the back cover on. Install the tensioner, leaving the pin in and the bolt loose. The new belt will have lines on it, one for each big sprocket and a double line for the crank- the crank line DOES NOT LINE UP with anything. It WOULD line up with the mark if you wrapped it around to the right tooth position, but it DOESN'T as installed. Just make sure all marks line up once you're done. If you rotate the engine, the belt marks will no longer line up, but the cam and crank marks all will.
10) If the car is a manual trans, the crank can be tightened by just putting the car in 4th or 5th gear. If it's an auto, tighten crank by the "rope trick". Turn the crank counter clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn from TDC. Remove the #1 spark plug (13/16 socket). Get some clothesline or similar cloth rope. Stuff 2 to 3 feet of rope into the plug hole. Tighten the crank- it'll stop near TDC. See the book for torque specs- it's very high. Turn back 1/4 turn, pull the rope out, replace the spark plug.
This isn't comprehensive, just the points that I think aren't covered well in the books. Good luck with it and work safely.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-207K ::: 90 745GL-M47-268K ::: 88 245DL-AW70-230K ::: 88 244 SOLD! 87 244 SOLD! Still looking for a bright red or black 244 with sunroof...
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