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86 240 stalling problem (update)

posted by  Hagrid on  Sun Sep 10 12:58 CST 2006
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Hi all again,
In my last post, I was trying to figure out why my 86 240 kept stalling going down the road especially when the motor got warmed up very well. As per some of your replies and a lot of reading archives, I cleaned out the throttle body, flame trap, breather box, replaced rotted wire harness (such fun!!!) and cleaned/checked IAC, and tested throttle switch. Put the intake and everything back together, started it up, and it ran great.....for about 15 minutes. ARRGGHH! Now, if the car is cold, I can drive a mile or two before it starts cutting out again. Once it does, I can easily restart it but it dies within seconds after each start. I have bypassed the Fuel pump relay, verified the fuel pumps work fine, the air mass meter was replaced about a year ago, the test you can do on the IAC with the test point works fine, and all the grounds I can find are making good contact. Also, the 25 amp fuse and connections are good.

The newest suspicion I have is the ignition coil. It gets very hot after a few minutes. I tested the resistances of the primary and the secondary when the coil was cold and when it was hot. When cold, the primary was between 1.6 and 2.0 ohms and the secondary was between 10k and 11k ohms (just a little high according to specs). After the car was warm and started dying the primary was 2.0 to 2.5 ohms but the secondary was between 12.5k and 13.5k ohms. So I'm wondering if that difference and being high by the specs could be causing this??
I think all that is left is the power stage, Hall effect sensor, and ECU. By the way, I'm not sure which is the power stage on this car. I have a little silver relay looking box mounted where everybody says it should be right behind the battery on the fender and it has 6 connections that I cleaned out. There is also a little black plastic box with a slide out cover right beside that with connections that I cleaned that up real good. Someone suggested the throttle switch again but it passes the "click" test and the car does the exact same thing even with the switch disconnected, so.....

Any ideas??? I'm thinking I may have to buy the coil to start with. I'm going nuts!! Even the local Volvo guy doesn't seem to have anymore ideas. Thanks for all the help so far.





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