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Now that you know where to jump the terminals,
If it runs when jumped, then assume the fuel pump relay is bad. It happens often. If you have a friend with a matching relay, you can test by swapping it in for a few minutes. Visit fcpgroton.com, find the 240s section, relays page, look up what years take the same relay.
The fuel pump relays often go bad. Located on driver's kick panel. It's rectangular, white, with 5 or 6 parallel blade terminals, and little plastic nibs so the connector will only go on the right way. If you know how to solder you can likely resolder the cracked solder joints and it will be good to go.
If you can't get the pump to work by proper jumping then it's effectively dead. That is, you won't get it working without opening going into the tank via the top opening.
Our '90 had a dead in-tank pump which I recently replaced. Pump is on the same assembly as the fuel gauge level sender. The sender includes the tank's top cover cap, and terminal connections for electric and fuel hoses into the tank. In our case it was the electrical terminals and also the hose connections that were ruined. Pump was actually OK when I tested it outside the tank today. But to do the job I installed a new level sender, pump, and the other little doodads that go with it. If you do it yourself I strongly recommend using the bung nut tool from IPD: ipdusa.com. I saved about $100-200 in labor charges, so the $26 + shipping was well worth it. There are other ways to get the nut off but they're a PITA and also messy, and will maybe wreck the nut so you can't remove and reinstall if you want to do it over like I did.
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