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To do torque rod bushings in the rear, if down time of the car is an issue, yank a set from a junker. Replace the bushings in that set, then install them when you can spend an hour under your car. Those are pretty easy to install, but you'll need the rear of the car completely up in the air.
To replace the bushings in the rod end, push out the old inner sleeve, and cut out any rubber that's easily removed. You can burn the rubber out if it looks like it's going to be tough. Do this in a well ventilated area, the smoke is harsh. The key here in any case is to get down to the shell of the old bushing. Take apart a hacksaw and feed the blade through the bushing, then reassemble. Clamp the torque rod in a vise, straight up and down, and cut down toward the rod- that way if you cut through the shell you won't hurt the rod end. Once you've cut the shell (it's only about 1/8" thick) the old bushing will fall right out.
Tap in the new ones, they should go in easily. Install involves a captive nut in the frame up front, through bolt on the axle in back. You'll probably need 15, 17, 19mm tools. Nut sizes may vary by year.
For trailing arm bushings, if you live in a rust prone area, the shell is often rusted badly, and may actually be swelled up to larger than the size of the hole it's in. I've got to do some in an 88 sedan, and I can see already that the shells are blown out badly. Getting them out will involve a long air chisel, probably a steel punch or drift, and much hammer work to collapse the shell. Trust me, you only want to do this job once- get the Boge (Volvo OEM?) bushings. Another case of getting what you pay for with Scan Tech unfortunately.
Front lower control arms often need the big rear bushing replaced. This causes creaks and thumps in the front end when it's bad. REmove the "elbow" bracket from the frame- 3x 14mm bolts. Remove the nut off the end of the control arm- 19mm usually. Hopefully the bracket and bushing fall right off. Sometimes stuck- make sure the center sleeve comes with it. I set the bracket down against the corner of a building or the curb and beat the heck out of the side of the bushing shell to collapse it. Once it folds in a little, tap it from the backside and it'll pop right out. Drive the new one back in. Apply a little never-seize to the control arm bolt end, and reinstall the elbow bracket.
Good luck with all the work, the rewards will be quite worth it.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244-M47-208K ::: Bilsteins, Turbo swaybars, Virgos, Lowered, Group A wing, Tach, 6-Disc, Satellite Radio, Keyless Entry ::: Coming Soon: B-Cam!
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