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Engine Switch Time Approaching.. Preparing the B20E 120-130

#1 Gunky but not rusted. Good News
Had a bad experience with Gunk brand engine cleaner.
It may be caustic,because it somehow over dried the hood release,
and I had to replace it.Besides the hose to rinse is probably out
of the question in the garage. A plastic putty knife,solvents,and a final wipe
with Kerosene and, Get a $30 respirator,is my advice here. Otherwise:
I have made engine 'cradles' out of 2x4 and 3/4 ply bottoms with
cheepo casters.14" wide will give an 11" ID which will pick up the rim
of the oil pan without denting it.2x4 will require a relief hole in the ply,
so the plug/pan is not bearing weight. The tailshaft will require @ 2x3
on edge at the back of the box. Use screws.Now you are a free man,wheel it about,
outside to a sheet of refrigerator cardboard to catch the mess and blast away.
#2 Sounds good,For insertion,you should have a tilt mechanism,store bought or rented
or I have seen chains rigged in an arc so the slider loop can be moved back and forth.
Be prepared to play with it to find the balance.Blocking and helper good ideas here.
#3 Yes,neoprene front and rear seals.Stock is felt.
Ken
--
White 86-245 DL, M 46, IPD bars & Wagon Overloads,Commando Bumpers,SS Belly Pan & Air Pickup,Straight-Shot EMT Chassis & Tower Braces,Scorpius Alloys,2 Belt No AC Conversion,Black POR-15 No Glare Front End






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