The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Estate/Wagon Tailgate Trim rattle-cheap repair 700 1990

Hi All
I thought I'd share a cheap but effective repair I just did on my 740's tailgate trim. Like many of you, the 4 clips at the top of the trim were broken and loose meaning the whole trim flapped about like a sail in the wind.
I considered buying one of those kits but figured with a bit of ingenuity, and my carpentry skills, I could sort something out myself.

So, I removed the interior trim (as per instructions on the FAQs) and gained access to the inside of the tailgate. I cut two wooden battens about 1 inch X 2 inches x 5 inches and screwed each piece into the inside of the tailgate interior either side of the wiper pivot point at the centre. I attached each of the two pieces of wood directly into the tailgate (just below the window line and between where the 2 clips normally fit on either side). I used 4 metal self-tapping screws to hold the wooden battens to the tailgate (having first drilled 2 small holes into each of the wooden battens and then using the battens as guides to drill into the tailgate's internal frame). The tailgate is aluminium (I think) and was easy to drill into with a small hand-held manual drill (careful you don't use a power drill which may go through the outer panel of the tailgate!)

With the 2 battens secured, I held up the plastic trim panel in place and refitted the 2 torx screws in the centre. I then and drilled 4 small holes (2 on either side) through the top of the trim panel so that the 4 screws could be screwed down through the holes in the panel and into the 2 wooden battens. You need to be careful where you drill the holes in the panel so as not to "miss" the wooden battens which (if you have fitted them correctly should be right beneath). I used 4 black round head screws (about 2 inches long) so it looks like a nice and neat job. Unless you really know that the panel should not have the round head screws in the top, anyone would think they are original factory fitted screws.

Now, there is not a squeak or rattle and I am satisfied with a professional looking job. Plus I can still remove the panel easily for access to the motor etc. One final point-remove the platic clips from the inside of the trim panel prior to holding it up to the tailgate. Also, it helps to have an assistant to hold the panel tight up against the tailgate when you are drilling the holes through the trim panel so you are sure it is nice and tight against the tailgate.

Please let me know what you think and if it works for you too. Finally-always remember the golden rule. Measure twice and drill once!
Good luck
Pete








USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.