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No differenc ein flow in stock configuration, but those who know say there is some more metal in the exhaust ports that allows more work to be done to the late heads before the wall gets too thin. Of course, some heads had core shift - a slight misalignment of the internal passageways created during the initial casting, that makes them unsuitable for modification. I think you need a trained eye to look one over and see that.
But anyhow, on to how to tell an E from an early F to a late F head. It's fairly straight forward. these are all injection heads, and have injector 'pads' on the top of the head, on top of each intake port. And between the exposed row of 5 cylinder head bolts on that side (the other 5 are under the valve cover). What you need to do is look at that center exposed cylinder head bolt. It sits on a raised section of machined metal, with lower rough cast metal around it.
If it sits on a separate 'island' of machined metal, completely surrounded by rough, lower casting, it is an 'E' head.
If it sits on an island connected to ONE of the adjacent raised, machined injector pads with a thin 'ithsmus' of raised, machined metal, then it is an early 'F' head.
If it is connected to BOTH adjacent injector pads via thin, raised, machined ithmuses (ithsmusii?) then it is a late 'F' head.
Here's a pic of my R-sport head that was created from a late F casting:
You can see the connections to both adjacent injector pads. Although the injector pads weren't drilled on this head.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic 245 + turbo
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