The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

How hard is it to blow a head gasket on a 240? After a radiator bursts? 200

you wrote
"Nobody has said anything about the blown radiator (it clearly leaks antifreeze). I'd still like to know if that's the cause of the overheating, or a symptom of the overheating (stuck shut tstat or blown water pump). Again, there's no heat coming into the cabin at all."

Hmmm. Hard to say, and I suspect that's why no answers to that yet.

Certainly an overheating system would build pressure in the radiator; eventually something will give. Possibly the rad blew (if already weak in a spot or two), relieving pressure on the head gasket so it did not blow! But of course if the head was overheated it could have warped and that gasket could let go in the future.

Other failure modes...
Thermostats can stick open or closed, but replacement is quick and inexpensive. If you buy the car, I recommend replacing the t'stat with a known good brand just for security. I like Vernet and Wahler, both avaliable from fcpgroton.com. Vent hole at rim of thermostat goes at the high point when installing. This makes the system self-burping.

Water pumps...
Usually they fail by leaking. So far as I know, overheating the system doesn't particularly make the pump fail any sooner. 240 water pumps have a small o-ring top gasket that mates to the head's underside; it likes to go bad and leak. The seal to cabin heater pipe at rear of water pump also can go bad but less often. Bearings will leak; the water comes out the rear of the pulley drive area - pulley assembly forms a shroud over the bearing area.

Lastly the pumps impeller blades can get corroded away to the point where they doesn't move much water. Or the coupling from pulley drive to impeller can go bad. You can test water flow by hooking up hoses and a water supply (barrel), if you want to take the time to do that. In my experience water pump replacement is a non-fun job so I'd be tempted to play with hoses instead - but some folks insist that water pump R+R is no hassle for them.
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, quad horns. Wifemobile '89 245 NA stock. 90 244 NA spare, runs.






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.