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Pulling Engine 900

I had to drop a tranny in a '93 940 na to find out what busted out a chunk of the inspection cover at 70MPH. It ended up being a rear seal carrier plate screw that vibrated loose, and at high velocity tumbled around the bell housing driven by the torque converter until it shot out. This led me to the use of Loctite 242 on many these screws missing lock washers.

I did not have to touch the exhaust or the wiring except a few on the tranny. Partial recall…4-six ton jacks as high as they can go, remove the cooler lines and clamps at the tranny, disconnect the shifter linkage, disconnect the kick down cable at the throttle and the countless things nate mentioned that I forgot such as removing the distributor cap to allow a little engine tilt. You will need 3 feet or so of 1/2 extensions and a universal, one person to hold the 18mm socket and one person to turn the breaker bar. I supported the engine slightly at the rear of the oil pan with a small jack and used a cheap tranny jack. I still had to wrestle the tranny off the jack to get it out from under the car. Oh yeah, remember to put the engine at TDC first and mark the flywheel after removing the tranny.

The seal had a slight dribble of oil which I think they all have. Of course I replaced it, with the carrier plate off the engine.

I think there is a discussion in the FAQ about disconnecting the exhaust to make more room to wiggle the tranny back. I did not have to touch it but the turbo exhaust may be an issue plus the 91SE is a slightly different animal in itself. (I can easily say that.)

As for engine mounts, I used a jack from the bottom but never again. Too many chances for the jack to slip with fingers in there. I have since cut up some 2X6s and 8s to lift the engine like this, http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/SpecialTools.htm#EngineLiftandSupport

Don’t trust the jack stands with cheap casted posts and hidden cracks under the paint. Put logs, tires, or concrete blocks under the car just in case.






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