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The relay is not a prime suspect. Its job is to make the windows non-op without a key.
The following is from my 1988 Volvo Wiring Diagrams Service Manual. Be aware that a 1989 may be different.
The relay contacts close whenever the key is in position II or III, fuse 12, 8 amp. That's the security circuit. Put your fingertips on the center back of the coin tray and see if you can feel the relay click as you turn the key on and off.
Battery power flows thru fuse 10 (16 amp) to the relay contacts. When the contacts are closed, it flows on into each door to the center contact of every switch. The power to the two rear doors first goes through the on/off switch in the driver's control panel.
When a window switch is activated, it determines which of the other two motor contacts goes to ground. All ground through the driver's door panel, thence to a ground connection near the relay.
Your problem is probably wire wear hardening and cracking in the harness into the driver's door, as Lanval said. There is a connector at the driver's left toe area, maybe tucked down inside the wire channel cover.
Look first in that area with the husher pad removed. The connector is a 9-pin square, four conrners used. White, green, black, red. Red is power in, black is ground. All four can break, but it's likely the red or the black.
WAIT - let's use an easier access connector. Look above the RIGHT side husher pad. Three wire connector, white coming in is black coming out; red coming in is yellow coming out; green coming in is red coming out.
Red (yellow) is powered with the key on, not through the driver's door harness. The other two ground through the driver's door harness. If you ground either one, the motor should activate. Stick a pin into the red wire, ground it and the window should open. Black will close it.
If that works and the switch doesn't, that means there is power but no ground, You will need to get into the harness going into the driver's door as some wire has broken.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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