The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Make-it-yourself engine lift for 240 B23x, maybe B21 200 2007

Here it is, I finally finished the bill of materials. I got it from a friendly Brickster who sold his last 240, now runs 740 & 940. Absolutely great when changing motor mounts.

Lumber needed: All 2x6

1 each crosspiece 60 inches. Hole for eye bolt is 5/8 inch, center line is 31.25 inches from the left end of the piece and halfway between the sides.

1 each reinforcer piece 36 inches. Make a 5/8 inch hole for eyebolt, centered 16 inches from one end, 20 inches from the other.

2 each side pieces 24 inches. Measure 12 inches on an edge, mark a line across the edge. Both edge, both boards.


Hardware: (From a hardware store)

6 each, 3-inch deck screws. These will be removed when the kit is stored.

1 each eye bolt, 1/2" by 8 inches, with hex nut.

2 each fender washers, 1/2 inches by 2 inches.

1 each grab hook, size 5/16 inches (Grabs lifter loop on engine.)

1 each spring snap 5/8 inches by 4 inches. Working load 955 pounds. Used to connect grab hook to eye bolt.

Assembly:

Place the side pieces on edge on the inner fender flange. Adjust them fore and aft them such that the lifter loop on an imaginary line between the lines you marked on the edges. Or lay the crosspiece so that an edge is on that line.

Place the crosspiece across the side pieces such that the hole is directly over the lifter loop. It should have about an inch sticking out beyond the side pieces. Next mark where the deck screws will go to attach the crosspiece to the side pieces. Note that the side pieces will be angled together towards the front, just a small amount.

Take the cross piece off and drill holes for the screw body. Put it back on and mark the location on the side pieces where the pilot holes will go. Use a nail to make a mark by poing it through the holes and tapping it. Drill the pilot holes.

Take the three pieces off and stand edges on the flat ground (concrete?) and install the deck screws.

You should have a large "H" shaped thing that will sit nicely on the fenders and the hole lining up over the lifter loop. Put it back on the car to check.

Put the reinforcer piece on the crosspiece and line up the holes. Insert the eyebolt from the bottom, up through two boards, through two washers, put on the nut enough to hold things on.

Hook the spring snap ring onto the eye bolt Then hook the grab hook to the lifter loop, and see how close the spring hook is. Adjust the eyebolt nut to have the connections hold together, nut being finger tight.

When you actually use it, put some grease on the eyebolt threads to make the nut easier to turn. I use a long (12 inch) box-end wrench and it turns easily. Even your wife-helper can do it while you are down under watching.

Remember for motor mounts it is necessary to lift the engine only 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

Good Luck, (Don't ask for a pic, no can do, sorry.)

Bob

:>)






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.