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Ok, I've read a ton of very enlightened posts on the subject, and thanks for this wealth of information. Sorry that I add another post to all the existing ones, but I just can't make up my mind here, I feel like my brain is overloaded, and I don't want to order stuff I won't be able to put together.
The scenario is that I just bought a couple of original spring coils for my 1988 245 wagon (at a very nice price, I might add), since the car sags quite a bit on the left side. Now, this is probably not just the spring, but also the dreaded TABs that are giving in after 19 years of duty (I believe), so I have planned to refurbish the rear suspension of my car. As far as I've seen after browsing this and other forums the last couple of years, this is one of the most rewarding jobs you can do on a brick (after the job, that is).
I do have access to a home made tool for the job, made by a fellow brickster, so it should be possible to replace the TABs properly with an original Volvo replacement part. I also want to replace the 4 support bar bushings (I think that's what they're called) while I'm under there, and I think that should be possible. I do not want to do this job again, so I want quality parts all the way.
All looks good, but then I start reading on people replacing their bushings with poly's from FCP Groton, and that this appearently makes the job a lot easier: basically burn or drill out the rubber, clean the tube, and insert new bushings. No need for special tools and brute force at all. This does though seem to be dependent on the fact that the shell/tube that the TAB sits in is intact, as you have to re-use it for the new bushing. I'm not completely sure how this method works for all the other bushings, but at least it seems a lot easier to swap these in. I tend to think this method is a work saver, which is nice, as I have no space to leave the car unattended on jack stands for weeks.
One of my questions is thus: what are the chances for this shell/whatever to be useful/not rusted? My car is in a pretty good shape, and I haven't spotted much rust there from the outside (or under the car), but I havent taken out the trailing arm to see yet, and I'm not going to before I have the parts in my hand.
Another question is whether the poly will hold up as well as the original bushing, and if the ride will be as comfortable as with the OEM. Someone mentioned that it passed the wife test, though, so I guess it will do.
If I am going to go the OEM way I will probably buy the parts in Norway to save me some time. Here, the TABs will cost about $31 each, and each of the 4 support bar bushings are closer to $43(!!!), costing me about $172+$60 = $230. And that is without the front bushings for the trailing arm. Add a gas shock absorber, which would be nice while we're at it, and we're getting closer to $360.
If I go the FCP Groton way, I'll get 2 poly TABs, 2 poly front bushings, 4 poly support bar bushings, two gas filled KYB shock absorbers ($28 each) and EMS super fast delivery at $250. Add 25% taxes and a fee of about $10, stopping at $325. This seems like the more reasonable option.
Another way would be to save some $$ and get the Boge TABs from FCP, at $17,5 each, and then maybe buy their 4 poly bushings for the support bars, but it might not be optimal to mix the two materials in one suspension system? FCP say they can get oem support bar bushings as well, but they would be $20 each, $9 more than the urethane ones. Or maybe I should just leave it at the TABs? No, that doesn't feel right, somewhat, when I'm still dooing the whole thing.
So there should be no question about it, I guess, but I'm not sure anyway. Will I end up with a broken/rusted through TAB sleeve, explode my car while burning the old rubber out (I might be able to use a drill instead?)? To be frank, I'm sceptical to using a torch or similar that close to the gas tank and gas lines of the car. Then, if I complete the job, will I be disappointed because I didn't choose original Volvo parts?
I don't know what I'm really asking about here. Just thinking out loud. I just want a smooth and stable ride without more than a weekends' worth of work :-)
And last, have I picked the right parts on FCP Groton? Here is the list:
SPF1312K
Trailing Arm Bushing Kit Urethane
$59.00 $59.00
SPF639K
Trailing Arm Bushing Kit Urethane (front)
$22.00 $22.00
1273622U
(Support) Bushing
$11.00 $44.00
343010
Rear Shock
$28.00 $56.00
Then you have the poly sway bar kit at $20, which I might just do in the same operation.
Another question here is if all the bushings are doable without a press when I choose the poly urethane way, and am I wasting money on some of these items? Maybe some of the parts are still ok?
Sorry if this post is long and confusing, that just reflects my state of mind at the moment. I am inclined to order all the items listed from FCP groton and leave it at that, but I don't want to order crappy parts or parts that I risk not being able to use. Any opinions are appreciated before I probably place the order in a day or two.
PS: I'm not looking for a racing car here, comfortable and predictable (especially in snow conditions) are keywords.
Lars Erik
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