|
Is the 240 heater valve supposed to fully shut off? After reading the post by zjz, above, about adjusting the 240 heater valve, I did a little test on mine. I would add to that thread, but wonder whether this an issue about more than adjustment.
The valve seems to fully close with a little detent in the valve lever itself. Once the valve closes fully, there is still some travel available in the dash heater control cable, meaning that the dash lever does not limit the closing of the valve. But, with the heater off, the AC off, and the recirculate button not engaged, the air coming from the center vents is about five degrees warmer than the fresh air entering from the outboard side of the driver's footwell (my car is old enough to still have the footwell fresh air vent).
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the fresh air for the heater/AC box and the fresh air for the footwell comes from the same place (the vent at the bottom of the windshield). I'm thinking that if the heater's truly off then both air streams should be the same temperature. So, I'm thinking my heater valve could be partly on, or have some built-in bypass for the health of the heater core. In either case, five degrees is a pretty big hit to the humble efforts of my recently revived AC. Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm thinking I could use a 100 percent cut-off valve about eight months of the year.
(I came across a boneyard car once where the heater valve had been replaced with a household plumbing cut-off valve, for economy's sake, I'd guess.)
Thanks in advance for your good ideas!
|
