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Hello,
I must strongly disagree with your statement "the only thing you have to do is cut the armored cable in to 2 and use the power from the end which comes from the ign. switch".
It is not necessary at all.
The only 2 reasons to cut apart a coil assembly is to replace the coil when you want a hotter than stock coil and you want a more original look or to replace the key switch when it fails and you can't find or afford a good replacement coil assembly and want to keep a more original look under the hood.
There are several ways around the problem of no power supply when cranking.
To explain to others who do not know, if you have an old Volvo with the coil assembly that has the ignition switch attached via a long metal conduit, the coil does not have the typical pair of connections and therefore complicates the addition of later style ignition systems. The only connection on the outside of the coil is the negative post and this just triggers the coil to fire. So when you need to hook up positive power for an updated ignition system you have to tap into the power at the ignition switch where the power goes away when you go to the start position on the ignition switch.
The best way is to have the later starter solenoid that has the extra pole for suppling power(usually for the cold start circuit) when the starter is being used. This pole on the starter solenoid has a diode already built into it so you need not worry about back feeding the starter. You just add the feed from the extra pole from the starter to the power wire that supplies positive voltage to the Pertronix.
The second way is to tap off the starter trigger wire to supply power to the ignition when you are cranking, but you need to install a decent sized diode to prevent back feeding the starter trigger.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90501
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