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I have an 89 Turbo and had this recurring problem for several years. I also searched and read every archived post I could on the matter, in addition to talking to my mechanic about this. Whenever I thought it was fixed, it just would reappear a few months later. I believe that I have found the problem once and for all, at least on my car. Prior to fixing the problem, I had my neutral safety switch go out on me, and based upon the experience of my mechanic, it either works or does not work. I also had to replace my starter because the solenoid did not retract fully and the starter gear would occasionally hit the flexplate. After replacing the starter, the problem seemed to go away, but came back again with the hot weather. I bought the green book wiring diagram for my car and stated carrying around a multi-meter so I could find the root of the problem when it occurred. Some that have encountered this problem have installed a relay to supply 12 volts to the starter diectly from the battery. The car doesn't start when hot not because there is no voltage present at the starter, but because the voltage is to low. Realizing the weakest link between any 2 components is the wiring connection points in between the components, I popped open all the connectors under the dash under the engine compartment and cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner. This worked for about a year before the problem reappeared.
In my case, the culprit turned out be the connector to the neutral safety switch connector under the front end of the console. There are 2 connections, a pink wire from the ign switch that connects to a blue going to the safety switch, and a pink from the safety switch connecting to a blue green that goes to the starter. You need to have high enough voltage (8.5-9 or above if I remember correctly) going thru both connections for the car to start. I had enough going to the neutral switch, but was losing voltage when measured on the blue green wire side of the connection coming out of the neutral switch. So I removed all the metal connectors out of the plastic connector body, reconnected them, and if I squeezed together the the pink to blue green connection with some tiny needle nose when the car failed to start, it would start. I placed the pink/blue connection back into the connector body. On the critical pink/blue green connection, I cut the crimped on factory male/females and replace these with standard insulated m/f crimp connectors. The engagement and contact force is much greater than the stock connectors, which are very thin gauge metal and do not grab each other very tightly. Finally fixed. This may or may not be your problem, but if so I hope this helps. Check your voltage on either side of this connection to see if there a difference.
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