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I have five or six Corona wheels including caps. Pretty good shape. No tires. Free to a good volvo home. Must pick up in Oldham County, 15 miles east of downtown louisville.
I also have an engine from a crashed 244 somebody can have motor has about 150k on it; ran fine before and after the crash. It's mounted on a stand that stays unless you want to buy it for what I paid ('bout $35).
I've been stripping a wreck that's going to the junkyard next weekend. I wanted to remind everybody that the REAL reason steering u-joints are so difficult to remove from the rack is that the linkage binds unless you loosen the shackles that fasten the rack to the crossmember. There is simply nowhere for the ujoint to go if everything is tight. It's like trying to compress an incompressible column.
Completely remove the bolts that tighten the u-joints onto the splines (they function as a ley to prevent the linkage from separating even if the bolts work loose). Loosen the u-shackles to free the rack, hold it away from the crossmember and tap lightly on the u-joint ro release it from the splined pinion shaft. You will be amazed how easily it comes off.
Another recent lesson... Had been getting a shudder in the front end when making left hand turns ('91 244). Turned out to be the right (passenger side) ball joint. I tried jacjing the suspension to inspect things. It is almost impossible to identify wear locations by shaking things by hand without disassembly. The only visual indication that I had a BADLY worn ball joint was a torn rubber boot. When I unbolted the ball joint, , the ball was really flopping around in the socket. A fw k more miles and it may have separated. Beware! The new Moog ball joint fized everything right up. The passenger side was fine. Sound boot, no funny sounds. Lubed it too be sure!
Happy bricking.
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