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I was only kidding about moving the dizzy. Point is, unless the point you moved the flywheel to (provided that's what happened) corresponds exactly to the ignition point of another cylinder, it would be impossible to set up the dizzy to sync. Since the engine will run, you are probably 45 degrees out, which cannot be compensated for with the dizzy.
Two ways you can do this. First I'll clarify Art's version: With the crankshaft balancer/pulley pointing to top dead center (0) pop the oil fill cap and look inside. Both lobes on the cam for the #1 cylinder must be up. That is they'll be pointing roughly at 11 and 1 (or 10 and 2, but both up). This assures you are on #1 compression stroke, where the spark is supposed to be provided. The rotor in your dizzy should have rotated a bit past #1 at this point. If the cam lobes are not up and the rotor is just past #4, you are 180 degrees out. Rotate the crank around again to get to #1 compression stroke top dead center (TDC). With the trans down and clear access to the flex plate, you will be able to locate the alignment point easily. The crank position sensor is a proximity sensor of sorts. As the rim of the flex plate with all its little punched out holes flashes by, the sensor is reading nothing. When it reads the solid spot, it senses so and triggers the ignition via the ECU. At TDC (top dead center), on compression stroke for cylinder one and with the rotor having just passed the #1 plug wire hole, your solid spot on the flex plate rim will enter the starter access to the bellhousing.
Since you'll have the trans down (kudos for taking the time for the pre-cleanup, I think I'll pressure wash my wagon before doing the clutch next month) you will have an easy alignment job. The above method will work to first check to see if the alignment is the issue. As Art mentioned, you can also pull the sensor and stick a finger down the hole to feel for the solid spot on the tone ring rather than pulling the starter (which is a pain).
Version two: Line up the rotor with #1 on the dizzy and check the cam lobes for compression stroke (both lobes up, valves closed). Your crank pulley indicator should be right around 12 degrees BTDC (before top dead center) which is, I believe, the correct timing (check the sticker on the strut tower, driver's side. I believe it is 12 +/- 2). In this position we can assume that the engine is in the place it would normally be to receive spark to #1. That being said, the solid part of the tone ring should be at the sensor. If it is not, unbolt the flex plate and index it around hole by hole until you get alignment of the sensor and the solid portion of the ring. With 8 holes in the crank hub, each position is 45 degrees of crankshaft rotation. You are most likely one hole off. More and I cannot fathom the engine firing at all.
When removing flywheels and flex plates, timing sprockets and gears etc, it is always advisable to mark the relationship between the shaft and companion part before removing. Some use a center punch, some use paint. When I do timing belts, I long since stopped using the alignment marks on the sprockets and belts. I just mark everything with paint before I pull the belt and make sure nothing has moved after the new belt is on.
"Never ask the dog to help you change a clutch. His fleas are always more important than holding the jack still, and the impact hammer always scares him away at a critical point anyway..."
Good luck,
Dave
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