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What's the gear change like without the engine running? Does it feel the same with the clutch depressed? If in good condition, the synchros are very strong but rather more resistive than modern designs. This is why, if you try to do a superfast change you're likely to hurt your wrist. At the right speed, it snicks back and forth with no problems. Even with the top "Brass" pivot worn the changes are usually fine but the stick waves around a lot. If you let the stick find it's own way round and use the cross gate spring, it only needs a bit of guidance.
BUT, if the clutch is dragging just a bit, the synchros have a fight on their hands as the mainshaft keeps turning. If you have a diaphragm clutch the spring can get pretty tired and won't pop the plate back and forth like it did when it was new. When you depress the clutch pedal it should feel light - heavy - light as it goes down. The final light stage is where the spring is fully out and spring pressure is less. As you let the clutch out the pressure/heaviness increases. If you don't get the light feel when the clutch is down you either have a worn out spring or the hydraulics aren't moving the lever enough. Checking the master and slave cylinders has been mentioned and is an obvious course of action. It's also possible the the pedal isn't adjusted properly. Adjustment is by nuts on the push rod up close to the pedal pivot and should be 5.5" from full up to full down at the pad position. It's not unusual for the clutch pedal in this position to be higher than the brake pedal. Rather than adjusting the clutch pedal down, adjust the brake pedal up. Same type of adjustment and also 5.5". Wear at the MC clevis isn't unknown and a little wear here translates to much more at the pedal. There should only be a very small amount of play in the pedal before it starts to work the MC.
If you can get the car up on a lift and watch how the clutch release fork moves as someone works the pedal, it might show less than "normal" movement. I don't know what the working stroke of the slave cylinder is but probably 5/8" to 3/4" max. Clutch release forks can crack and flex, this can reduce the distance they move the clutch release bearing. You might also see signs of this from underneath if your helper tries to go through the gears.
Just a few ideas and all free unless you have to buy parts!
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