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Two things to check.
1) Driveshaft center carrier bearing. It is/has a rubber bushing (sleeve). These fail in various ways and will sound slightly different depending on the specific failure mode. Check from below the car.
Traditional American car driveshaft is a straight pipe from rear of transmission to the rear axle differential. Volvo driveshaft has a u-joint in the middle so it can flex there. Shaft stays up inside the tranny tunnel so you don't see it looking at car from the side. Center carrier bearing is that center u-joint and it's rubber bushing support.
2) Headlight relay, located on the driver's kick panel, approximately where the clutch pedal would be. The plastic connector for the relay will sometimes overheat and you get a burning plastic smell. Eventually your headlights won't work. High beam and low beam both dead. High beams will light when you pull back on the hi/low switch, but only for as long as you hold it pulled back.
It's a white plastic connector and the relay attached is silver/gray metal, cube shaped, about an inch on each side. Has 5 blade-type connectors. Plenty other relays in the car but none look like that. Cure is to splice in a new matching relay connector from any 240, 1986 and later. Usually the relay itself is still OK but of course it's easy to cut the wires and get both from the junker donor car.
If you do this, replicate the connections by copying the wire positions, not necessarily the colors. Color coding of the wires to that relay connector changed over the years but the relay did not. So for example, the wire(s) going to the center connector on your original relay will go to the same center connector on your replacement.
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.
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