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Do you have another car with a B18 or B20 that you can use as a frame of reference? If so, I would recommend parking the two cars side by side, and methodically check the placement of every plug wire, rotor position, distributor position, timing mark etc. against the working car, until the non-working car is configured identically right down to the position of the valves and pistons.
Compare the low tension wiring connections against the good car; measure the low tension voltages and compare against the good car. Check the resistance (at a suitable point) between the engine block and the ground terminal of the battery and compare against the good car.
Try starting the car again with fresh gas in the float bowls; if it acts like it's trying to fire start rotating the distributor in whatever way seems to make it fire more often until it starts. Make sure the chokes on the bad car are both fully open; there should be at least a 1/4 inch of jet exposed, if not more.
If you can't get the engine to fire and you can find no discrepancies between the two cars, take a picture of the ignition system of the good car first, and then start swapping assemblies from one car to the other, starting with the entire distributor, including cap and wires. I would start by swapping the suspect distributor onto the good car, and if changing the part doesn't help, return it to it's original location and try another part until you have either found the defective item or not, in which case you can turn your attention to the fuel supply and induction system.
Bill
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