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I did a '92 940 oil pan recently—without lowering the cross-member. The main thing that let me ignore the cross-member was Chris Pope's(?) frequent tip about:
1) Dropping the pump with the pan (this allows Pan and Pump to come out together)
2) Reinstalling pump (with new sealing rings on feed pipe)
3) Cutting away part of the "new" pan's baffle tray so it will clear the pump pick-up when pan is reinstalled.
NOTE: I was not careful about noting the proper tray area to remove, and probably cut out more than needed (pic below). On reflection, I now think the critical area is the "humped" area in the right-rear corner (left lower corner in pic), maybe about 3" on side as well as rear . Trial & error when fitting the pan should define the area needing removal. I used an air nibbler and file, carefully removing all debris.
As for lifting the engine, just the front hoist point was used. Also removed the distributor cap and rotor for firewall clearance, unbolted the tranny cooler line support at the tranny bracket, and disconnected both coolant hoses on he engine ends.
On installation, the metal end of the power steering pressure hose had to be removed (have a pan handy). Had I cut away the correct baffle area, this might not have interfered. Also, the PS line configuration may vary by year and rack type. This pipe was not a problem on removal, after dropping the pump.
My cross-brace for lifting with a long screw eye and S-hook to engine ring was more secure than it looks in the pic. Improvisation was needed when my old 240 brace proved too short to span the 940 engine bay.
For safety, I used solid wood blocking, a mechanical scissors jack, and a piece of 2 x 10 under the tranny pan while the engine was on the hook.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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