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Hi fellow Brickers. I haven't been on for a while due to health issues. To get to the point, I have a 91 745T (B230FT) with 136,000 Miles on it. I worked on it in my garage at home for 1 1/2 years. (YiKeS)
Here's a list of most of what I did:
Reman. Cylinder head, Timing Belt & Tensioner, New drive belts, new battery, fresh premium fuel, complete major engine tune-up, including fuel filter, physically checked Turbo Impeller for excessive runout, it's good, replaced ALL vacuum hoses on car, removed (cut out) ALL factory wiring connectors under the dash & hood, each wire is now soldered & shrinked, replaced intercooler, replaced 2 intake hoses (deteriorated), built a ground bus, used in parallel with the factory ground system for absolute good ground (also sealed connections), replaced 2 leaky injectors, replaced ALL engine sensors, replaced RSR, had original ECU rebuilt, and also acquired a later/updated ECU for the car, changed oil & filter (synthetic), cleaned & resealed engine breather, installed clamps on ALL under-hood plumbing, borrowed the Volvo factory breakout box from the local Volvo dealer (they hadn't used it in 10 years-LOL), which is how I finally got off of my wallet and bought the AMM, after which the car checked out 100%, car does not now nor has it ever had ANY DTC'S, I have checked and rechecked voltage values at both ECU'S, tested ALL wiring concerning engine operation several times for continuity or shorts from departure connector to the destination connector, it's all good. BTW, I use a Fluke 87-III Meter. Swapped power stage from a running car, not the problem, 43 LB. fuel pressure at the rail, key on, or while (trying to) run. OK, you get the idea.
First let me say, I have been working in vehicle service for 36 years, and working on cars for 40. This is the first and only car ever I could not fix.
Here's the problem:
I bought this car almost 2 years ago from a local used-up car dealer. It would start and run like the timing belt had jumped, chug for a minute or two, then stall. He didn't know why, but told me it was the Turbo. It's harder to start after each time it stalls almost 2 years later, it still does exactly the same thing.
After all this time, a lot of reasearch, and lots of late nights in the garage, I ran out of things to check. I towed it to a local shop I know and they verified everything I checked, and no DTC'S. They did find the fuel rail and 1 injector leaking, and both parts were replaced. These guys are good, and I'm picky who works on my cars (other than me) and they haven't got it running in 3 months so far. No, I'm NOT being charged by the hour!
So here is my question (thought I would never ask, right):
I found this in the FAQ section, under engine speed sensor. I was wondering if THIS could be my problem, "Caution: Some Cars Have a Flimsy Sensor Mounting Bracket". "It's not mounted in the beefy Volvo bell housing, but in a flimsy, Fiat-like, aluminum casting that bolts into the back of the block. And very easy to break". If this bracket were broken, could it make the car do this? I do know for a fact that the dealer I got the car from had replaced the speed sensor and the RSR before I got it. I also bought a second engine speed sensor and and RSR and installed them. Also, new exhaust, new brakes on all 4 wheels, and a new water pump were installed by the dealer. They said they had been driving the car, but I was unable to get any real info, like did it do this suddenly, or did it deteriorate over time? If anyone has experienced a similiarly haunted Brick before, any help, ideas or suggestiion would be SO, SO appriciated!!
Thanks in advance,
Ken
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