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Camshaft R&R checklist 700 1990

After having replaced the front cam seal without removing the lower belt cover, crank damper, etc., I would offer up the following comments. By the way, this only applies to 700/900 series with a cam-driven distributor:

1. rotate engine with the Harmonic Balancer nut clockwise to TDC #1 piston.

- - At this point, make darn certain that when the crank is at TDC, that the cam is on it's mark also. If the marks on both shafts don't align simultaneously, yet the car now runs good, then the outer ring of the harmonic balancer has spun. However, even if that's the case, it's not the end of the world. With the cam on it's mark, paint a mark on the harmonic balancer aligning at TDC.

2. Mark the belt and cam sprocket to make sure the timing belt goes on the right tooth on reassembly.

- - No marking really required.

4. Clamp the timing belt above the lower cover to make sure it doesn't move off the lower crank and intermediate shaft sprockets.

- - Also not really necessary, as the I-shaft timing is not critical, and you will have visible timing marks on both the cam and crank. (The mark on the crank may either be the factory mark OR the painted mark you applied due to a spun damper.) The heck with the marks on the belt - they aren't a very reliable way of indexing the shafts anyway. Also, even though you can't see the crank sprocket, it is quite easy to tell if the belt teeth are locked into the sprocket teeth.

Additional note: Even though the cam seal won't fit through the hole in the rear belt cover, I was able to replace it by removing the sprocket and just bending the rear cover forward enough to get the seal behind the cover and over the end of the shaft.

Also, you would probably do this anyway, once you remove the top belt cover, stuff a rag in the opening on the top of the lower cover to avoid dropping seals, tools, etc., down inside.

Good luck.






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